Tuesday 24th of September 2013

Back in Australia, Have had our tribute to Dad, we are at a loss, but accept Dads wishes, thankyou to those friends who talked to Dad in his later days, and thanyou to Helen for your kind words.
Regareds to all, John

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Yesterday I packed our gear in the car, picked up Dads ashes and headed on my way. Following the non toll roads as I would be on and off of it, stopping here and there when I see the Camino signs. I venture onto the path and scatter small amounts at each stop.
Tuesday night is spent at Ponferrada, I have travelled about 500km today.
Today I made it to Muxia, stopping as I did yesterday. I scattered the rest of the remains in and at the waters edge, with a prayer and a few tears. Then drove to Cape Finisterre, then on to Satiago de Compostela where I stay tonight.
I have 3 days before I fly out, so easy driving back to Madrid.
Thankyou to all the kind words and prayers to who followed Dads Path.

Monday - September 16th, 2013

My name is John, eldest son of Luke, dad passed away peacefully in the early hours of the 9th of September. He will be missed by us all.
I have all of Dads passwords to his email etc, in my possesion and will try to answer those emails still pending over the next few days.
Dads body has being cremated and I embark on spreading his ashes along the paths he has walked.

Sunday, 8th of September 2013

A cool early start on Saturday morning, overcast and threatening to rain and 30km of up. The path follows the river up the valley, initially small towns at a regular basis, lots of places to get a coffee or snack. But once past Urdos there is nothing ... no towns. no views ..... fog at times, just keep walking ever up, some is on the road, other is bush tracks ..... but still on and up. Then I am at the summit, the cloud opens for a while .... then I am in Spain and at the Refugio Santa Crista, its clean, and very comfortable. This town we are in Candanchu ... in winter a ski resort.
Sunday, cool start to the day, some 32km to walk today ..... at least the majority is down hill. Its a clear day and warms as rhe morning passes, Memorable things  .... the magnificent railway station at Canfranc .... memories of a by gone era. The path is rocky and uneven, I am walking with some other pilgrims that I met yesterday .... when we get to Jaca, I go east they go west. We grab lunch at a bar and walk on. Its low 20's when we arrive at Jaca and settle in to the accom .... the usual, clean up etc then rest till diner time.

Friday, 6th of September 2013

25km to walk today, its going to get warm again today, but nice and cool first thing ... lots of trees so plenty of shade. Still traversing the nountains, so up and over ridges ant through valleys the up and over, again. The road is paves and single lane, have more live stock on the road than cars.
Make good time and reach Bedous early afternoon .... book into a Gite and grab some lunch.

Thursday 5th of September 2013

I'm currentlystaying in a small inn at Aramits, France. Wednesday I covered about 30km, it was flattish walking along a valley. But today was up and down like a yoyo and some steep climbs .... luckily just over 20km today. The weather has been kind with low to mid 20's in the mornings but getting into the low 30's in the afternoons .... so aim is to get walking done in the morning if possible. Walking back roads and country lanes, few cars .... but for the most part good reception for the GPS ... just as well as its a maze of unsign posted roads and tracks.
Tomorrow its a long slow climb back into the Pyrenesse town of Bedous ..... some 25km away.

Tuesday, 3rd of September 2013

Headed out very early this morning, breaky and a coffee then on my way. A 500m climb over 5km awaits .... it takes just under 2 hours to make the top then its 20 odd km down to St Jean Pied de Port.
I'm about 4 hours into my walk before I come across people coming towards me ... the initial pilgrims are fit and experienced walkers, as I progress, the walkers become more stressed, foot sore and down right exhausted looking. By midday I am at Orrison, I take a break and enjoy lunch and a beer, Pilgrims are still staggering up the hill ..... quite a few wont get past this point on the first day ..... 8km out of St Jean. About 1pm I head of down hill its steep here and take it cautiously as don't want any knee problems. As i head down there are still people staggering up or resting and getting there strength back .... its about 3.30pm when I walk into St Jean. i find somewhere to stay and clean up its been hot today even in the mountains .... its high 20's here today. All clean, but a tad used looking I have a look around town ..... there are all these new pilgrims gathering to set off in the morning, bright and shiny in there new clobber ..... pore buggers, its going to be 33C or there abouts tomorrow. I share a meal with some American Pilgrims ..... I suggest they put off leaving for a day or 2 ..... no they will leave in the morning. I suggest maybe only walk to Orrison, no, they expect to go all the way to Roncesvalles ..... I wish them well.

Monday, 2nd of September 2013

Had a great time in Pamplona, Sunday walked to Zibiri about 22km and its a steady uphill all the way .... I know I walked this about 15 months ago, but its all new to me, different perspective, I guess. Lots of towns on the way, then today carried on to Roncesvalles, the weather is great, hope it holds out. A very steep 5-6 km climb tomorrow, then down hill all the way int St Jean Pied de Port ... about 27km all up tomorrow ..... so the earliest of starts in the morning. All provisions carried as nothing en-route till Auberge d'Orisson  ....... maybe lunch there ..... if all goes well.
Then just under 2 hours to St Jean ..... a very steep downward path.

Saturday 31st of August 2013

Walk the 21km into Pamplona on Friday, at the top of a hill where the metal sculptures of pilgrims are, along with lots of wind turbines had a coffee from an enterprising chap. It was down hill all the way into Pamplona then. Today I wandered around checking out the sites and enjoying the cafe, bar, restaurant culture that is here. I am relaxed and have changed plans again ..... had intended to go from where I was on Thusday and follow a different Camino to the coast north of Barcellona .... nope decided to go back to St Jean Pied de Port and check out the scenery in the oposite direction.

Thursday, 29th of August 2013

As I get ready to leave Lorca, I notice a cloudy sky but it is expected to get to mid to high 20's today.
So I push of .... the locals tell me I am going the wrong way, they are very helpful in keeping you moving on the right path .... I explain I am retracing my steps .... they are happy and wish me Buen Camino.
Basically the path is meanders this way and that, with the odd hill here and there, but the toll road is ever present. I pass through numerous towns, Cirauqui, Maneru, Puente la Reina and finally make Obanos for lunch ..... I have covered about 22km today, the skies are clear and its heating up.
Get into a private Aubergue here and settle in, its a lot qieter here than if I had stayed at Puente la Reina. Chores out of the way and a wander around town, fins a pleasant bar with some other pilgrims and we chat, have diner and back to the Aubergue.

Wednesday, 28th of August 2013

Sunday was a lazy day strolling around Logrono, a leisurely lunch, temp mid 20's.
Monday I was off again and walked the 10km to Viana, a coffee and snack  and then another 10km to Torres del Rio, again temp mid 20's ... at times I feel like I'm swimming up stream, as there is this constant hoard of people walking towards me.
Tuesday I alk some 18km to Villamayor de Monjardin, stopping along the way at Sansol and Los Arcos for refreshments and a rest. Again temp mid 20's.
Today off I go not sure where I will stop tonight, Estella a biggish town is only 9km up the road, the path is also getting hillier as each day goes by ... its a steep climb into Estella, stop for a cool drink and a snack, then wander on to Lorca another 9km.
My apologies, as I seem to be losing the plot with the blog and getting lazier and lazier with it .... will try better.

Saturday, 24th of August 2013

It was 16-17km to Navarrete, conditiond hot to very hot, luckily flattish country.
Today did the 12-13 km into Logrono, again hot -ish, flat country, some shade as I got close to logrono. I am settled into a smal hotel here may stay an extra day, see what pans out?

Thursday, 22nd of August 2013

Walked the 17-18km to Najera with cloudy threatening skies, still got to 30 degrees C .... thunderstorms about, but didn't effect me. Stopped for drinks along the way, but still made it by a bit after midday. Today Aubergue/Hostel not as busy, a balmy night so eat out in the street, pleasant food surroundings and company.

Wednesday, 21st of August 2013

Tuesday I walked to Belorado only 11-12km, a coolish morning with cloud, but in the afternoon up into the 30's again. A longer walk today, 23-24km to Santo Domingo de la Calzarda. It was cooler with a top of 25 this afternoon and cloudy. Walking well, toe not a problem any more (as long as I don't stub it again). Terain relatively flat with gentle inclines and descents ..... no trees along path, every thing dry and bleached. A few towns en-route so able to get a drink, snack, etc along the way.
Staying in a B+B here, seemed to be a lot of noisy and immature pilgrims at the Aubergues ..... so went for something a bit more private and quieter and, diner, breaky, vino included .... great meal with the hosts.

Monday, 19th of August 2013

Awoke this morning to a warm but cloudy sky, set off about 8am after a coffee and some breakfast.
As it turned out, the morning was the hottest part of the day .... though didn't get above 25C.
It was a pleasant walk of some 18-19km to Villafranca de Montes de Oca ..... it was amazing, in the afternoon people were rugging up and it was still high teens - low 20's .... weird.
Guess we are all used to the hot Spanish summer .... though this more like I had last year.
No rain, little dust, but still had to do washing, when there is only one change of walking clothes, it has to be done .... or go dirty.

Sunday, 18th of August 2013

Decided this morning to hit the road again, left at first light about 7.30 ish. Stopped for a coffee on the outskirts of Burgos, then onto Atapuerca, some 19-20km down the road .
I could tell its going to make it to mid 30's again today .... but still comfortable walking early in the morning. Once out into the farmlands, it dry and hardly a tree to be seen, shade non existent.Walk into Atapuerca just after midday, temp must be in the high 20's .... first things first, a long cool drink at the first bar I find ... this is not a big town so may be the only bar? Lunch out of the way its line up for a bed for the night at the Aubergue .... then settle in wash and clean up .... clothes dry in minutes as its hot, hot, hot.
Hook up with fellow pilgrims and back to the bar .... conversations are weird a numerous languages .... well its what makes this interesting. A mishmash of food on the table with everyone diving in, then back to the Aubergue for a restful evening .... after ear plugs are in, and drift off to the snuffles, snorts and down right loud snoring of some.

Saturday, 17th of August 2013,

In Burgos, taking it easy, having a break, as foot a tad sore. Its only a minor inconvienience but know I have to look after my feet! Its only a minor injury, but take them all seriously.
Wandering around town talking with the other pilgrims, thunder storms gone, no rain, its hoy and for the next few days up near the mid 30's temperature wise.
Looking at next destination, but enjoying myself here, have fell in with a group and spending time with them ..... I guess Monday morning they will head off toward the west and me to the east.
Cheers for now, Luke

Thursday, 15th of August 2013

Took my time as only 13km to Burgos, its hot even early in the day, with the threat of thunderstorms about. Despite the heat, no shade, a sore foot .... I made good enough time to enjoy my walk and be in Burgos before midday and the real heat set in. There was several towns en-route to get a cool drink and take the weight of the feet. Had Lunch with some fellow pilgrims at a bar in Burgos .... under the shade of umbellas and trees .... fantastic. Will give my foot a rest and spend an extra day here.

Wednesday, 14th of August 2013

Only got about 8km today, hobbling along after stubbing my toe on the leg of the bed last night.
Have managed to get this site working again, on my computer, its very difficuilt to get onto the hostels/albergues computures with all the people that hog it updating facebook or chating on line for hours ...... theres always a cue waiting to get on.
Weather still very warm to hot, especially in the afternoons, and balmy to hot evenings for alfresco meals.
After some of the other Caminos, its refreshing to be able to stop anywhere along the path, as towns close together and lots of accommodation .... just as well as there are hordes of people looking for a bed each night. You could get by by only walking 5-10km a day, like me today ..... little toe is rather bruised, but it wasn't all that bad today while walking ..... just walked slowly and less distance.
Oh .... I'm in Rabe de las Calzadas.

  

Tuesday, 13th of August 2013, have ventured the 20 odd km to Hornilles del Camino in warmish to hot weather. Great afternoon respite, even better evening meal.

Monday12th of August 2013, 25km to Castrojeriz, hot and dusty, little to no shade, easy walking, got here a bit after midday.

Sunday 11th of August 2013 ..... yes still problems, lay over in Fromista, all well, still computer problems.

Saturday 10th of August 2013, walked the 19km to Fromista, before the heat of the day hit to hard .... a rest day here so hope to be able to get on another computer to update this properly. There's always some one on them ... very frustraiting.

Friday, 9th of August 2013 ..... at Carrion de la Condes ..... will fill in rest when I can get on another computer, mine still playing up.

Wednesday, 7th of August 2013 .... its hot, flat walking, taking my time ... at Sahagun .... still have that blog error happening

Monday, 5th of August 2013 ... left Leon this morning and on my way backwards on the Camino Frances

Sunday 4th of August 2013 - NB have updated previous days.

Rest day in Leon, lovely city, spent a good part of the day with fellow pilgrims in the main square, loads of bars and restaurants around here.

Saturday, 3rd of August 2013

An easy days walk into Leon, still hills to go up and down but very gentle in comparison to the previous days. Its beautiful country side though getting a bit dry and parched. Another day heading up to the 30's and that last hour into Leon was a tad draining, but nothing like on the Camino Francis .... guess I have that to look forward to on the way out in a few days?

Friday, 2nd of August 2013

Had a choise of 40km to Leon or break it up so stopped about half way at La Robla. Not a bad day today with easy walking, country lanes and tracks, not as hot and plenty of shade.

Thursday, 1st of August 2013

Only 10km walk today but very steep and easy to slip, so carefully does it. Though the majority is down it still takes over 4hours to cover this section with little to no shadevery . And its another hot day .... that beer looked and tasted great when I finally got to Buiza

Wednesday 31st of July 2013

Today is 15km of mountain tracks  on-roue to Poladura de la Tercia and brilliant views all the way. Started out early and have provisions .... as nothing on-route. The track is for the most part easy to follow, but almost non existant in parts. Its rough and washed away in places, but considering the conditions and its a hot day, low 30C .... well make my stopover early afternoon, hot, sweaty and grimmey. The usual clean up and then afternoon chatting with other walkers/pilgrims.

Tuesday 30th of July 2013

Using a different computer to update the Blog.
Monday started walking to Leon ..... 33km to Pola de Lena, low to mid 20's and clear skies. The path starts out flatish, but soon find myself back in the hills, lots of towns on-route ... arrive mid afternoon.
Not so rapt with these long days.
Tuesday, not as far but hills turning into mountains and hard work, mid 20's again and clear skies .... some 22-23km to Pajares, arriving early afternoon, allowing me to put my feet up for the rest of the day.

Saturday, 27th of July 2013

On Friday walked the 39km to Oviedo, conditions low 20's overcast and the odd shower, so back to humid .... the path was in good condition with much of it on back country lanes. Scenery is  great, lots of small towns along the path ..... though didn't make it to Oviedo till late afternoon.
Saturday .... a rest day .... take in the sights and generally laze around, again overcast, low 20's and showers. The big news here is the train wreck at S de C, the bars and restaurants are not as noisy ... this weekend as all of Spain is in mourning.
May stay an extra day here then venture on the road to Leon (back across the mountains).

Thursday 25th of July 2013

Wednesday walked the 33km to Tineo, it was fine and sunny .... a long day with many climbs and descents. Plenty of small towns to stop for a break, great views, passed only about 20 or so other walkers. By the time I reached Tineo it was mid afternoon and getting quite hot. Was really looking forward to that first beer at days end.
Todays walk to Cornellana, 29km in clear skies and sunny conditions, more ridges and valleys, but as day progressed hills smaller .... still arduous and glad it isn't raining as some of the tracks would be very muddy and very difficuilt to walk.
Took my time, stopping for coffee and lunch as numerous towns en-route. Arrived mid afternoon, hot and sweaty, so cleaned up, did the washing then out to the nearby bar for that drink with some fellow walkers, early diner with some vino, then back to accom .... reception a bit iffy here, so will try a bit later.

Tuesday 23rd of July 2013

Another sunny day, again mid to high 20's , strenuous climbs up mountain tracks ... todays walk took me to the summit of Puerto del Palo and down and on to Pola de Allende ..... 20km of hot hard walking ..... I dare to say a lot harder than day one out of Saint Jean pied de port on the Camino Frances. Ankle seems to be OK and not a problem .... nearly 7 hours of walking as the track is rough  and steep whether going up or down, no shelter from the sun, just a slight breeze ..... was really looking forward to that beer at the conclusion of my days march. passed only about a dozen other pilgrims today .... so fairly quiet for this time of year.

Monday 22nd of July 2013

At La Messa, not much here but the Albergue, reception has been dodgy, a bit hit and miss. Mountainous terrain, very steep climbs and descents, its quite a bit cooler here and the mountains seem to draw what ever clouds are about. Ankle still causing some difficuilties, maybe some tendon irritation due to the hilly conditions, but don't think its anything serious .... will rest up at next sizeable town.

Sunday 21st of July 2013

Hi, computer seems to be working, have a sore foot/ankle  so hobbling at the moment, just taking it easy .... big lunch with some locals ... yeh lots of vino and shots .... a siesta is on the cards. Hope this reads OK as constantly fixing spelling mistakes.
Cheers to all, Luke.

Friday, 19th of July 2013

A bit of early morning mist this morning, but on its way to being another hot one. I am right slap bang in the hills here, with long steep climbs and descents, great scenery, some 25km of walking today up and over The Alto de Acebo with its windmills churning away .... guess its always windy here, little to no shelter from either the wind or the heat.
Arrive Castro, my destination 2 pm ... ish, have a well deserved rest, beer and sandwich.
Check into accom, clean up, hang washing out to dry and put my feet up. Make new friends with the new lot of walkers, diner and then home to bed with all the delights of dorm living.

Thursday 18th of July 2013

Well its 7.30am, about to head out on today's walk .... arrived here ... Cadavo early to mid afternoon after a 30km walk in the heat, hard work as the trail is a constant climb or decent.
On arrival grabbed a late lunch and a few beers, cleaned up and had a snooze .... awoke about 2 hours ago. Guess I was tired.
Heading to Padron today .... 27km, its going to be hot again today, 30plus with a cloudless sky .... so will get moving, more later.
Its late in the day, arrived here about 2.30 in the arvo, the route was hilly but beautiful, mostly along tracks through the countryside, so a bit dirty and dusty on arrival. A cold beer and a bite to eat, clean up and relax. Later diner with some fellow pilgrims .... they keep telling me I'm going the wrong way .... well it getts the banter going. then back to the Albergue, use of there computer to update this then off to bed.

Tuesday 16th of July 2013

Humidity is settling, its a bright sunny day around 30C, the terrain is undulating, but not over taxing and my journey covers about18km. The area is farms with lots of trees and plenty of shade ..... I take my time stopping for breaks as I pass through the towns en-route, arriving at Lugo late morning. The rather circuitous climb up to the bridge is steep and arduous, then flattish all the way into the town. Its time to for some lunch and a rest

Monday 15th of July 2013

Well I'm up early, its clearing skies and still a bit humid, but back on the trail. Its another long walk 29-30km today of hills .... my destination is San Roman de Retorta, I get quizzicle looks and the locals say I am going the wrong way .... S de C is back that way. I reassure them I know what I am doing and which way I am going. It is again a long hard day, lots of steep climbs and decents. Its a bit after 2.30 when I arrive hot and dirty/swetty. The track has been rough and still a bit muddy in places.
I find my accom and clean up, get the washing out to dry and then have a late lunch/early diner. Again tired from the strenuous days walking.
NB: Have gone back a few days and corrected the blog whilst I have the chance at the Albergues computer.

Sunday 14th of July 2013

Was exhausted from last few days walking, it is again hot, humid and stormy. I decide to have a rest day .... so wander around toewn, have an octopus lunch (the place is famous for it), generally bludge around and watch the Camino Frances walkers come and go.

Saturday 13th of July 2013

Made my way to Melide, a total of about 29-30km. The weather was hot, overcast, humid with thunder storms ..... first 14km not to bad, relatively gentle up and down. Last half, hills, lots of them ..... made pretty good time considering conditions. Arrived about 2.30pm and grabbed some lunch then accom to get clean and dry. This day took a lot out of me, had an early diner then bed.

Friday, 12th of July 2013

Guess it was a problem with my computer ..... I'm using the one where I am staying.
I'm working my way to Melide where I will do the Camino Primitivo, backwards ...... then slowly work my way to the east coast. The weather is constantly in the mid to high 20's to low 30's at the moment, with a mix of clear and sunny and those summer storms which have been around today and for the next few days.

Tuesday, 9th of July 2013 - In Pontedeume, temp a bit cooler, mid 20's ..... very pleasant. Comfortable in my own skin and with walking solo again. Still can only do blog in the heading part, will try again on another computer.

Monday, 8th of July 2013 - well for some reason I cant seem to get into the normal Blog part .... so guess this is it. Am on the move again and in Betanzos, its still rather warm, so only walking early in the day.

Friday 5th of July 2013

Just a quick update, being a tourist in the mornings, then relaxing in the afternoon. The sun is a bit too fierce to lay out in and no one to fut sun lotion on my back.
Have been out to the point to see an old roman lighthouse, theres an aquarium out there as well, the castle, museum and lots of old historic buildings, catch some of the gardens tomorrow.
Lots of holiday makers around .... avoiding where there are lots of children ..... moved hotel as it was inundated with young families.
Staying in a slightly dearer beautique hotel, in the artistic part of town a dash bohemian.

Thursday, 4th of July 2013

Sorry missed last 2 days posts, Am in O Coruma and its hot, 30 plus degrees and getting hotter over the next few days. Did a bit of a spurt last 2 days as temperature up in the high 30's due  for nearly a week. Its about 7.45am, having breakfast and catching up on blog and emails ..... am considering putting feet up till cooler weather arrives in about a week ...... usually get itchy feet after just a few days, so will wait and see. Have a reasonably priced hotel room in an older hotel, comfortable and in a good position, lots of bars and restaurants close by. Beach only a few hundred metres away.

Monday 1st of July 2013.

Another lovely day as I bid farewell to my travelling companions for the past few months.
Then its pack on my back and head north .... not so easy to follow a Camino backwards, the arrows all point to Santiago ....... well this is where maps and GPS come in handy.
Well so far have been able to follow the markers, only about 12km out of Santiago, but a bit of a winding trail so have covered more like 14-15 km to get here. Am in A Lameira, an outer suburb of Santiago, the country side is beautiful, green and lush.

Sunday, 30th of June 2013.
Only a short walk into Santiago this morning, arrived about 10am - ish. I got a big surprise as I walked in, there was Liz, Bill and Anne sitting eating breakfast at a cafe, they were looking out for me and called me over. A coffee and hugs all around, then I stowed my stuff at there accom and we went off for lunch and later diner. They leave for home in the morning so a very timely arrival by me. After leaving Santiago they had walked to Ferrol and A Coruna and then back down the coast and across back to Santiago about 240km. Will decide what route I take tomorrow.

Saturday 29th of June 2013.
Playing catch up today .... computer glitch, yesterday.
Friday morning, cool, bright, sunny .... only a short distance today, so enjoy breakfast and a coffee in the sun. Pack on back and off ..... on my Jacks Malone and relaxed. Hardly have time to get a stride up and walking through the next town, Prado .... its small spread out residential town. An hour and a half through picturesque country side and enter Silleda, a typical modern rural town easy commute to Santiago. An hour and a half later find myself in Bandeira, very rural, just the hotel, and the train line.
Well I check in and relax, its hot outside, up around the 30's ... very few guests, one other pilgrim couple arrive later .... we are getting close to Santiago, so maybe people are pushing on?
Saturday, breakfast consumed its back on the trail, 5km to Dornelas, then another 5km to San Miguel de Castro, over the Rio Ulla and through Ponte Ulla, Outeiro (had thought about staying here, but decided to go the extra 7km) and on to Susana ... some 23-24km for the day.
Its hot 30C by early afternoon, find a place for lunch and digs for the night. Less than 10km to Santiago now.

Thursday, 27th of June 2013.
Luxury, its a crisp bright sunny morning in the Southern Galacian Hills, A hearty Spanish breakfast and I waddle off into the distance leaving that imposing Monastry in the back ground.
Again towns every few km, most seem almost deserted, but washing hanging on the lines and the odd dog or cat show life. This is truly a magical place, green, trees, moss, lots of texture in the flora ..... the stone buildings are looked after, gardens are neat and tidy. The km's slip past almost un-noticed, I have a break in Castro-Dozon, 10-11km into the day, though its still quite early, a bit after 10am ..... a beer and a pastry thing that was on the bar, don't know what it was called, but that was my sugar hit for the week. With energy oozing out of me I was off again, over hill down into valley, again and again. Arrive at A Laxe about 1.30 ish, about having covered about 28km. Lunch is enjoyable .... here I run into some pilgrims from earlier on in the walk, no I can't remember there names, they can't remember mine either, so I feel better. They have had lots of rest days and short days. We check into the Albergue clean, wash and dry tmy meagre belongings and back to the bar, en-mass. A rowdy joyful evening is had by all, then back to dormitory, snuffles, snorts, burps, growns and other unsavoury noises, zipping and rustling of sleeping bags ...... ah dormitory bliss ...... then sleep ..... thanks to ear plugs and just a little vino.

Wednesday 26th of June 2013.
Another lovely day, up early and off on my trek .... solo today as Pam had other plans.
So it was down through the town to the river, over and up the other side ... a decent climb out of the valley ..... then relatively flat is, but a steady 400m climb for the rest of the day over some 26-27km.
Yes today I am planning on a 31km day ..... its actually easy walking and get up a good stride.
There are quite a few small towns along the way to Cea .... my original destination. At Cea a coffee and bread roll with smoked meats and pickles ..... then press on .... I have a determination and a steady pace, arriving in Oseira by 2pm. The Abbey/Monastry is is very imposing, medieval, fortress like and dominates the beautiful smal town .... the albergue is barn like, loads of atmosphere .... I had booked into a near by B+B, cosy, comfortable and quiet.
Some lunch a beer then the accom and a clean up ..... then reflection on events that saw me solo again.
Diner at one of the bars and a quiet night then rest.

Tuesday, 25th of June 2013.
R+R day in Orense, sight seeing, lunch, sight seeing, siesta, diner, bed then up early in the morning as some 21km to next stop.

Monday, 24th of June 2013.
Another brilliant day, coolish early, but heading to mid 20's. A bit over 21km to walk today so an early start .... walking through farm lands and green pasture lands, its well treed and gentle down hill nearly all day. There are towns every 2-3.5km, A Pousa is the first just under an hour into the walk, then Salguairos just a half hour along, then Ousende another 45 minutes , Pereiras and then Castelana where we stop for coffee and snacks .... we have been on the road for almost 4 hours, we have covered about 13.5km ..... its around 11.30am.
Sitting on the side of the road enjoying coffee and roll filled with cold meats and salad, we ponder how lucky we are. Enough banter its time to move on, still another 8-9km to go .... Redoredo, then Seixalbo and we are on the outskirts of Orense and what is a largish city ..... no sooner here than wishing for the serenity of the country side. The tranquillity and green is gone, my brain is struggling again, too much to take in, decisions to make, feel a brain overload.
We stop at a bar and I slowly consume a very large beer, and nibble on a huge plate of mixed tapas .... food, drink, memories of doing this flood back and I am very relaxed, even with the hustle and bustle going on around me. We are at a table on the footpath at a small bar, the sun is shining, there is but a slight breeze ..... there is only the two of us (Pam and I), she reminds me of my sister and is about the same age at 70 or there abouts. So after lunch its of the the Albergue ... by the time we get there its full, so of to the Hostel just down the road ... have to go a bit more upmarket and end up sharing a twin room with en-suite ..... it appears that there is some show or festival or something going on in town? The guy was talking so fast missed what it was, as we are both tired after today's walk decided to have a rest day here (only on the track a few days and having a rest day)?
Clean up, do washing, siesta, then a late leisurely diner and back to room .... room is not big and Pam snores, are well thems the breaks. So huddle  on the balcony and catch up with Blog and emails.

Sunday, 23rd of June 2013.
Another bright, sunny day, coolish to start with ..... I linger over breakfast and that second coffee.
Its about 14km to my next bed, on yesterdays timeline thats about 5 hours ..... so finally push off about 8.30 -8.45am.
I am walking with Pam and we seem to be plodding along at a comfortable snails pace, the country is relatively flat, low hills, but the track is constantly up or down, there is some 14km to do today.
Towns dot the track at regular intervals and if we are not passing through one we are passing by one .... though there is little life in them. Though just out of Bobadela Pinta beside the road there is a road side peddlar selling coffee and
Tortitas de patata .... he has a captive market ..... Hans and Willy, other pilgrims from last night are there when we arrive. Pam and I have several of each then its on our way again.
Hans and Willy are long gone by the time we depart ... we still have 5-6km to go.
We arrive at Xunqueira de Ambria, just on 2pm and its quite warm and has been a dusty day, as we walk up to the bar Hans and Willy call us over to 2 beers set aside for us .... they are very much appreciated. Only a light lunch as we had the potato pancakes only a few hours ago and they were filling.
Post lunch wash and dry clothes, siesta under a tree in the garden ... a tad tired today, but head clear.
The next 2 days walk is about 21-22km each day from bed to bed and its getting hillier, no turning into mountainous ahead.
Last night at diner sitting with about 10 other pilgrims I heard of a chap that died of a heart attack on the Camino about a fortnight ago in a nearby town .... there were 4 different interpretations on how this guy died, some were unsure of the town, but others said it was Albergueria ..... my ears were already pricked up, but I stayed silent, apart from keeping the conversation going on that track. I know it was me they wre talking about, but kept quiet as it would be embarasing for all of them.
I did pipe in and say I heard he did survive and was doing well ...... no they were adament he died and that there is going to be a memorial stone placed where he died ..... very interesting, I thought.
Though walking with Pam today I did confide in her as her only comments was that she was saddened by it all. I explained to her the events, and asked her not to say anything to the others if we were to share a meal together again.
I had an early diner with a few others and then off to bed ...... reception here dodgy so will send when it improves may be later in the night.

Saturday, 22nd of June 2013,
I depart Santiago early on a bright and sunny day, heading to the place of my last footstep on the Via de la Plata. I arrive 11.30 ish after some changing of buses ..... I am in Albergueria, I look around and try to remember .... but I have seen lots of towns like this, so unsure if I do or don't.
Forget about that, have a coffee then start walking back to Santiago. Not far out of town I get overtaken by some other walkers .... we chat for a short while, but they walk at far to brisk a pace for me currently .... so bid "Buen Camino" to them. its 7-7.5km to next town along the Camino, its up hill and down dale .... takes me a bit over 2 hours. I arrive at Vilar de Barrio hot and tired, grab a light lunch and a beer, the beer is getting warm by the time I finish it.
Find a bed for the night in the local Albergue, clean up and relax ..... I'm tired but feel good and drift off for a bit of a siesta. A pilgrims meal and some local wine and bed.

Friday 21st of June 2013,
Have the OK from the Doctors to get back to the Camino, memory still a bit fuzzy, but improving.
Kids flew out today on the long haul home. Am out of the rehab place and in a hostel, private en-suited room, nice.
Tomorrow make my way back on the bus to Albergueria, where I collapsed and see if any memories come back or may have to go back to Campobecerros? Will see what comes back, if anything?
Feel a bit apprehensive, like its all new .... stumbling through my Spanish, seem to have enough to be understood and understand them .... when they slow down a bit.
Weather is on the improve, warmer today and almost clear skies. Tomorrow low to mid 20's ... great.

Thursday, 20th of June 2013,
Spent a good part of yesterday having tests done, lots of waiting around ..... a brain scan, pathology, dexterity, cognigence skills ....... it just went on and on. Was totally exhausted ..... went to bed early and slept through till the morning.
Today, a bit brighter out though still chilly and patchy cloud cover. Had breakfast with my kids and fellow travellers as they proceed on there way today, so it is the last chance to catch up in person till next walking adventure? Lots of discussion on that over breakfast, some ideas floated.
Wished them well, very sad to watch them walk away and not be able to join them.
Well one thing I remember about the Camino, it not hard to make friends or at least fall in with other walking companions.
One more day with my children before they fly home, get an update on my tests Friday, with luck will be able to bus it back to last place I remember or where I had my stroke?
Walked around town, did a bit of a back track on the Camino Frances ..... watched all the Pelegrinos on the last leg of there journey, smiles at almost being finished, some walking wounded, hobbling and limping along, then there is the bike riders some who think they own the track and ride way too fast with all the walkers.
The Via de la Plata is a lonely walk in comparison to the Camino Frances, which was so crowded.
Back at the Cathedral the line for the Compostela was a huge ...... talking to a fellow Pilgrim who finished yesterday, there is close to 1500 a day finishing, though a lot walk only from O Cebreiro or Sarria to be eligible for the Compostela.
My children are ffoot sore from all the walking I have put them through.
We had a delightful diner and then bed.

Tuesday, 18th of June 2013,
It was a day of walking and talking, wet weather gear outside as its cool and damp .... a top of 15C today. It was great to be walking, helps clear the mind, gets rid of all the clutter.
Met up with Liz, Bill and Ann for diner ..... didn't recognise them at first, then the fog cleared enough to place them in there appropriate box in my memory. I am remembering more and more ..... but names and faces don't seem to match, well not all the time.
We talked of the my event and how scared and anxious they were, luckily Bill and Ann are fluent in Spanish, Ann a retired nurse stayed with me and Bill phoned for an ambulance, as luck would have it a Mica Ambulance was in the town we were entering and was there in minutes (and here we are in the back blocks of Spain). A trip to the nearest Hospital, anti clotting drugs, stabilised and then off to Santiago for further treatment. Think I might have used up all of my lives on this one.
Nice to have some more holes in memory filled .... though still no personal memories of the event.
Then back to my accom at the rehab place, don't feel I need any more rehab, but insurance people insist, till I'm off there books .... I'm sure they would like to shift me off home and forget me, but no flying, so here I am.
The others (my walking companions) are around for a few days and then walk on to A Coruna, which will finish there intended walk and mine when I can continue.

Monday, 17th of June 2013,
Its funny, how the medical people keep asking you:-
What is your name?
Do you know where you are?
Do you know what day it is?
Well I think I have all of these down pat now, but my Spanish is lousy at the moment.
When I first awoke , apparently I was speaking Spanish , as that is what the staff where speaking to me in ..... but as my English came back the Spanish went .... weird.
Spoke to the doctor this morning .... well no flying for about a month, so not going home.
A bit more rehab. then, may be able to continue Camino ..... that will be up to me, I guess.
Kids staying around to the end of the week then back to there lives.
My walking companions, once I was out of danger and getting ready for rehab. went back to finish what they started ...... no point them sitting around with me, OK, but unable to continue Camino till?
We had about 150km to go to Sqantiago from where I had the stroke at Albergueria ...... but I don't remember that day at all. So I assume it will take 5-7 days of walking plus getting back there ...... email says they are in Ponte Ulla about 20km short of here.
So I see them again tomorrow.

Sunday 16th of June 2013
Not much more has happened, I walk up and down the corridor, only allowed outside with an able bodied person with me ..... feel a bit like a prisoner. I am walking steadier and feeling stronger .... hopeful of getting back to the Camino soon.
Have located my email password, so will be catching up with replies as soon as I can.

Saturday, 15th of June 2013 - day ?
Sorry no updates for a while, I am currently recuperating in Santiago from a stroke ..... don't remember anything, up until a few days ago, awoke to family and friends from home, by my bed side. I'm out of hospital and doing some rehab. there is no obvious after effects from it other than some memory loss and hopefully I will be back to normal shortly .... but looks like I will be on Warfrin from now on .... small inconvenience, but that's life.
Will get back to emails and things when I can remember my access codes, etc. Should have had it automatically taking me in, like here.
Hoping to be fit enough to go back and finish my Camino on foot in the not to distant future.
Went out to lunch today with my daughter and son who flew over, it was great to see them, but am still a but unsteady on my feet and look to need a bit of fattening up.
Must thank my walking companions and a very helpful Mica Ambulance crew that by chance was near by and available. The early treatment made the difference between recovering hopefully completely or ..... don't want to contemplate that.
More later.

Tuesday, 4th of June 2013 - day 105
Its looking like a marvelous day, a few cloudes but its mild and heading to mid 20's later. We grab a last minute coffee as we are departing La Gudina, we have a lot of towns on-route today.
An hour in we venture through Venda do Espano, a slepy little town, 3/4hour later its Venda da Teresa and likewise venda da Capela and venda do Bolano ... and after 5 hours of walking we arrive at Campobecerros. We check in and clean up then lunch and relax.

Monday, 3rd of June 2013 -day 104
Sort of started today in yesterday's post which I did before starting walking this morning.
It was actually about 9am before we got away this morning ... had intentions of walking to Campobecerros, some 33km of hills and rough tracks.
That was not to be, a short distance out of Vilavella, Liz stood on a loose rock, stumbled and jarred her knee. We strapped it and carried on at a some what slower pace. Pereiro was the first town we arrive at only 4km from start, its small and a little worse for wear, we pass through and see no one, no shops open .... we continue. Its up hill all the way to the next town Canizo, much more spread out and affluent .... we are able to get a coffee here and a short rest.
We have been walking for 3 hours and have covered about 9km .... the next town is La Gudina, we can stay there its a bit under 5km down the road. Temp. is up and over 20C and getting warmer so hats and sun screen on and away we go .... the country is farm land and a picturesque mish mash of colour and texture as we shuffle along, luckily its not hard going. We walk into la Gudina 1.30 -2pm ish ..... first thing we come across is a bar, great ..... a few drinks in the shade of an umbrella, some lunch and find the accom. We have a choice of Albergue or Hostal, we chose the Hostal and settled in.
Then off to the Farmacia a few hundred metres up the road for stuff for the sore knee. Later diner and rest.

Sunday, 2nd of June 2013 - day 103
Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, very pleasant day, spa's, massages, sun, nice ... and healthy food, and just a tad of vino. Its great to be pampered and looked after for a change.
Yes a day of doing little else than self indulgence. A sleep in, a very leisurely lunch, massage, spa, (not big on saunas), some sun and cocktails in the arvo .... diner and then drift off to sleep.
Well another day, Monday morning, have had breakfast and am ready to start trekking again, waiting on the others so thought I had better catch up as forgot all about blog last night .... and not sure on my wireless reception once back out in the rural hills villages.
Well I see them coming so till tonight or when ever reception permits,
Adios amigos

Saturday, 1st of June 2013 - day 102
Its sunny, clear skies, but a cool start to the day ... not a long distance to day, just 18-19km .... unfortunately we are either decending or climbing and these are 300-400 metre climbs decents.
Its high teens to low 20's and we are swetting and dirty ... we make Vilavella about 1.30pm, grimmy and tired. The accom here is a 4star, Spa Resort (well thats all that is here), its expensive by our previous accom ... about 4 times dearer ..... but its great to relax and take the waters ( if it was mid week it would have been cheaper). I can send this out as broadband is included in the tariff ... mine still not working.
May stay here an extra night, food is great, room well its fantastic. Diner awaits, may be an update after diner.
Great food, too much wine, so off to bed.

Friday, 31st of May 2013 - day 101
Still no wifi signal?
Its a bit warmer today, though just, we are looking at 24km today ... carrying supplies as unsure of what we will come across.
Requejo de Sanabria is about 3 hours into our day ... then another 3, no closer to 4 hours to Padornelo .... the track is getting tougher, mainly due to the condition of the track and the constant up and over, down and up. Well no its just up for the last 3 hours of todays walk and tough as we have been on the flat for ages, months infact.
Still no signal?

Thursday, 39th of May 2013 - day 100
Its cool, overcast but no rain, we are starting to head towards the mountains. The hills are steeper and the track rougher. The towns we pass through are Asturianos, Palaeios de Sanabria ans finally we stop in Puebla de Sanabria .... some 22km today.

ps ... sorry no signal for wifi

Wednesday, 29th of May 2013 - day 99
Realised today that we missed our turn off at Zamora to head of to Chaves in Portugal .... we are still on the traditional way, ah well may be next time.
This morning was overcast, but mild .... during the day some sun, some showers and mid to high teens weather wise. About 6 hours of walking today, terrain low flattish hills and basically following the N-525 .... the noise of distant trucks and cars ever present.
About an hour and a quarter we enter Rionegro del Puente ... we replenish some supplies at the small general store/mini mart and carry on ..... Mombuey a larger town is about 2 hours further on. This is the largest town we will encounter so go to the super mercarto and stock up on things ... in case we have to supply our own food (often a possibility).
Another hour of walking and we enter Valdemerilla, we carry on ... showers hit us sporadically, just enough to be annoying. About 50 minutes later we pass through Cernadilla, and less than half an hour later we arrive at San Salvador de Palazuelo .... a small town/community .... we have to hang about for a while to be let in too the Albergue and we settle in for the night preparing our own diner.

Tuesday, 28th of May 2013 - day 98
We awake to a cold gloomy morning, the odd shower now and again. We rug up and set out, we follow the river for a while, and not far off the highway, though not much traffic on it ... after about 2 and a quarter hours we venture into Calzadill de Tera. We look to buy a coffee, none to be found, so keep walking ... half an hour later we walk into Olleros de Tera ... again no luck.
The rain has mostly held off and and we stumble into Villar de Farfon early afternoon. We are staying in a private pilgrims hostel tonight. This town is smaller than any of the other towns ... the host is friendly and looks after us. We wash and clean up, Diner was a big bowl of spaghetti and crunchy bread, with red wine to wash it all down. Its warm, comfortable and dry.

Monday, 27th of May 2013 - day 97
The day started of coolish but clear, looking like another great day ..... a mix of flat and low hills today, and trees. We are walking north again on gravel tracks and country lanes, first town we come to is Bercianos de Valverde after 3 hours of walking .... we are looking forward to a coffee and a break. The town is farely large, but we don't see a sole, its like its deserted, don't see a bar, cafe, shop and before we realise we are leaving town .... no dogs, cats or people .... weird.
We press on, its nice with the sun on our backs. An hour and a half later we walk into Santa Croya de Tera .... we are hopeful of a coffee, but alas we are disappointed again .... we carry on. We follow a river on to the next town A km and a half up the road is Santa Marta de Tera, our stop for the night and finally a cup of coffee .... no feel like a beer, as its pack down for the day. Well almost after lunch have to cart it to the Aubergue. The day is clouding over and its starting to look like rain again as we head to our digs for the night. We have covered about 23km today, we have seen very few other pilgrims and the Aubergue is only half full, so plenty of room to spread out. We clean up, wash and dry our clothes .... as we head out for diner is raining lightly, so coats on .... we hope it is but a passing shower and not setting in again.

Sunday, 26th of May 2013 - day 96
A coolish start to the morning, but clear skies .... its going to be a beautiful day, low 20's max. We have now left the plains country and are heading into the hills, with trees and all.still comfortable walking as the hills are low and rolling, it makes for an interesting change to the terrain and quite sudden. A bit after an hours walking we cross a huge single lane stone bridge that traverses the Rio Esla ..... there was a 5km speed limit on the bridge, pitty no one paid any attention to it (well no one in a car or truck). About 11.30 we strode into Faramontanos de Tabara, this town has lots of those underground store houses, like we saw on the Camino Frances.
Around 1pm we walk into Tabara, a substantial town .... we seek out a restraunt/bar for lunch then off to the Aubergue to settle in and clean up. later a wander around then an early diner and ready for a good nights rest.

Saturday, 25th of May 2013 - day 95
Its a bright sunny day, coolish to start with, but not a cloud in the sky. Planning on walking about 23km today .... so a comfortable distance on flat country. Get moving about 7.30 ish, we a following country roads that parallel a minor highway, like yesterday .... the road/track is gravel and in good nick,  the farms here look like its all wheat or grain of some type.After about 2 1/2 hours we walk into Fontanillus de Castro, we are thinking of a coffee, a cool drink ... we are walking out and nothing, the town is small, there is an Aubergue, but closed for cleaning at this time of day.
About 45 minutes later we walk into the next town, being Riego del Camino and finally a bar, its about 11am ish .... no not too early for a beer and its only another 6-7km to our final destination for the day.
Half an hour or so, sitting and enjoying a beer in the sun and its packs on and off walking again.
Its about 1pm ish as we walk into Granja de Moreruela .... lunch in the shade of a tree with the help of a beer to wash it down then off to the Aubergue and check in, wash and clean up.

Friday 24th of May 2013 - day 94
A leisurely start to the day, cool and crisp first thing, but clear skies. As we depart Zamora we stop for coffee, and then about an hour later at Roales we grab another one. The country is flat and treeless, we follow gravel roads that run parallel with a highway that seems to vary between a couple of hundred metres away to up to half a km in places.We make Montamartaa bit after midday and relax in the sun, its high teens temperature wise with a top of 20-21C later. We have a look around the town, Find the best bar/restaurantie and sit in the sun ... the old men of the village are lined up backs to the wall talking and sipping there drinks. After lunch its time to check into the Aubergue, clean up, do our washing and put it on the line, then off to check out the church and the roman ruins (which are all along the Via de la Plata). The church is across dry river bed lake bed and on a hill, we cross an old roman bridge to get there, like all the churches, plain on the outside, but ornate and lavish inside.
Back to the restaurant and diner in the early evening sun (the hottest part of the day) then back to the Aubergue and settle in for the night.

Thursday, 23rd of may 2013 - day 93
Weather sunny and pleasant, nights cool to cold days slow to warm up and quick to cool down once its dark. Wandered around town yesterday being a tourist, checked out the old fort, cathedral and some of the local restaurants/bars. had a fit of the blues late today, don't know why, checked emails etc .... guess it will make itself apparent in the near future.

Wednesday, 22nd of May 2013 - day 92
We awaken to a clear sky and sunshine, its still cool, but will warm up ... we start out early, the country is dead flat and treeless. We walk for about 3 hours before reaching our first town, Villanueva de Compeau ... we have covered about 13-14km (its a very small town). We decide to head on, though we have about 18 km to Zamora, being our next stop.
The day is pleasant with sun on our back and a spring in our step.
We are in outer Zamora about 2.30pm and enter the city about 3pm or a bit after, we ate energy bars and drinks along the way, so make our way to our accom. We will take a rest day here as there is much to see. We check in and do the usual clean up and wash. then its out and about, we find a bar that we can enjoy the late afternoon -evening warmth of the sun. We have a late lunch/early diner and as the sun goes down we venture back to our rooms.

Tuesday, 21st of May 2013 - day 91
Weather a bit better today, as we set out, yes its still quite cool but only scattered cloud and sun about .... expecting a top of about 18C later in the day. Not the most interesting of walks today as much of it will be near or beside the A-66, we are never more than 500m from it, the land is flat with no trees ..... the sound travels a long way here. There are no towns along the way , well on our path anyway. We make good time and arrive at El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino, some 21km along the road .... we consider doing another 13 km to the next town .... but hey its not a race. Settle in, lunch,washing, snooze, diner and that's another day.

Monday, 20th of May 2013 - day 90
We set out in cold, gloomy weather, rain holding off for now. The track is well marked and in good condition .... a broad gravel country road. The country is flat and green, no trees. After a couple of hours we walk into Castellanos de Villiquera, a coffee is in order .... we find a cafe and get take aways, we sit in the town plaza, its still quite cool, but luckily the rain is holding off. We put our packs on and head off north again .... I wish there were some trees!
Another hour and a half and we are at our destination Calzadz de Valdunciel, a small town, but it does have a bed for the night for us.

Sunday, 19th of May 2013 - day 89
Here we are in Salamanca, it should be warm to hot and clear skies ...... but its not. We had a top of 12C today, a couple of showers, a bit of sun, but mainly overcast. I had mentioned in earlier posts that the weather was picking up and by Wednesday it would be back up around 30C ...... that has been revised and with luck it is expected to be may be 20-21C and sunny, then back to more of what we currently have.
We were in no hurry to get out and about, apart from a late night, its too cold to think about it. We eventually head out and do the normal touristy stuff, churches, convents, plazas, gardens, parks. Its Sunday so a lot of things are closed. All the outdoor eateries are in doors ... even with the gas heaters its not very comfortable. Our mood is affected by the weather, we are sombre and quiet for the most part. A bight to eat and a vino or two pick us up, we come across some fellow pilgrims and chat a bit .... it appears the weather has them feeling a bit low as well.
We spend the rest of the day sitting, eating, chatting and then home and think about how far we walk tomorrow.

Saturday, 18th of May 2013 - day 88
Surprise, surprise ....... its cold, wet and windy ..... lingering over a hot chocolate we eventually wander out into the cool of the morning, there is a temperature gauge outside the Farmacia .... it says it 4C at the moment, we believe it as within minutes of being outside we feel childed to the bone. Well nothing for it but set a cracking pace and warm up. We know its not going to rise above 13C today and that will be late afternoon. Its dry at the moment and the road is in good nick, no mud, brilliant.
Under an hours walking we enter Morille, think about a coffee but nothing seems open, the odd barking dog here and there, but that is it. We keep on trekking, the country is dead flat now and we are making good time, not a tree in sight, its some what misty and we can only see about 100m ahead at the best. The wind has dropped and is now just a cold draught about the legs.and face, I have my thermal gloves on and a beany pulled down over my ears as they were cold.
We walk all the way into the river at Salamanca through parks and green belt, then its up onto the main raid to cross Rio Tormes and enter old Salamanca, we pass the old fortifications for the city and find a bar to warm up in. Its a bit after 1pm and we have travelled some 24km this morning to get here.
Lunch is a thick lamb and vegetable soup with a big loaf of crusty bread ...... a meal all on its own. We fill up and warm up, hydronic heating and the heater is beside us .... fantastic.
We consume a couple of bottles between us of what tasted to me like a Merlot.
Then off to find our digs for the next 2 nights, a bit more up market 2 bedroom apartment on the edge of the old part, a bit dearer but very comfortable and warm, we can cook if we want .... no meals out are very affordable and hearty.
Here we are in a major town on Saturday night again, well organised. We hunt out some where nice for diner with a guy playing guitar in a corner, later he is joined by some one with a violin and then numerous people get up and play and sing. Like back home "play for your pots" well here its wine or brandy it seems. Well a very good night and we have just gotten home and its about 1.30am and heading to 2am. We are all still wide awake, so get down to answering emails etc.

Friday, 17th of May 2013 - day87
Well guess what its freezing again, we start out early - ish, its about 6-7C with a chilling breeze. Some 28km to next town, being San Pedro de Rozados, the country is flatish,scrubby and in quite a lot of places soft under foot (muddy), there is a lot of surface water laying about, some times easier to walk off the track. Almost 3 hours into walking we come to a sign, suggesting we have an alternate path, its not official, its yellow paint on boards and panelling, with scallop shell stencilled motifs ...... I think, I've seen this before, some enterprising bar owner trying to detour pilgrims to, or past his door. Some times these just take you nowhere and you have to back track. GPS shows us nothing, indicate no track, WiFi with tablet, no signal.
We stick to the main track as the alternate is unmade and muddy, main track is in reasonable condition here. We trudge on, rain coming and going, wind gusty, misty at times. We are cold and bedraggled by the time we arrive at San Pedro de Rozados, its about 3pm and we are over it.
Fist thing is to check in and clean and warm up as its only 12-13C outside and the chill factor makes it feel like about 8-10C. A hot shower, wash and dry clothes, then off to the bar, its about 6pm, we want warming drinks, bar tender suggests hot port with brandy, sounds good to us. A monster glass of hot port with a slug of brandy arrives, yum ...... heady but very warming. With only eating energy bars, bananas and apples during the walk .... well lets say we are all acting on the silly side quite quickly.
The host suggests some tapas .... local delites, we don't ask as we may not like the answer to what we are eating, it is yummy and filling, a bottle of red, one of the heavy ones (a bit like a Durif). Host then brings out a big bowl of what I think is a Sheppard's Pie or something ..... it turns out to be a steak and kidney with dumplings ..... double yum. The host tries to force sweets on us, but no room.
We roll back to our accom through the cold, wet and freezing streets, once there its warm and comfortable, so a coffee and emails and blog, then.
Looking forward to putting my head down on the pillow.

Thursday, 16th of May 2013 - day 86
Well what can I say, its cold, overcast and threatening rain .... the wind, though cold a gusty, comes and goes. We head out begrudgingly after hot coffees and a hearty breakfast .... its after 8am, a late start for us, but we linger by the fire to warm up as much as possible. The path is gravel, better than dirt and in reasonable condition, our path is fairly flat and we make good time.
Valverde de Valdelacasa .... about 9km down the road takes about 2 hours. More hot drinks and away again, its another 11-12km to our destination along the path, gravel/mud as farmers use this road and the tractors, live stock leave there mark. So its a bit " tiptoe through the tulips" at times, then there's the fiord's, no its just low lying ground that water has filled. we are lucky when its only a few inches, but the ground underneath is soggy and you sink in a bit. This is where the walking sticks come into there own, giving balance and stability. Some have stepping stones, but these can be treacherous, so much care must be taken.
So its about 1pm as we enter Fuenterrolle de Salvatierra.
Number one is to find a bar/cafe/restaurant ..... when we do its warm inviting and cosy. Lunch out of the way its find our accommodation, basic ... yes but warm. The further north we go the towns are more like along the Camino Francis, bare stone, not rendered, well the old ones and there are a lot of them.
Diner is over and its time to go to bed the heating has gone off it appears and its cooling down, so bed beckons.

Wednesday, 15th of May 2013 - day 85
Its cold this morning, initially there are showers, lots of towns to pass through today. The first being Banos de Montemayor its about 10km down the road and takes us a bit over 2 hours ...... coffee break and warm up. Puerto de Bejar some 3km and 45minutes further .... there are more showers, but we trudge on ..... another 2 hours and we are in La Cazada de Bejar. Most of the walk we have seen remnants of the Roman occupation, with ruins and road markers, though haven't lingered as not the most comfortable days walking. We dry out and warm up over lunch, there is a fire burning and it is cosy. Off to the Albergue and settle in ... everything needs washing and drying, including us.

Tuesday, 14th of May 2013 - day 84
Big day today, its a cold and wet start, track is ok for the most part .... but lots of areas that have water laying across it .... made a point of wearing the gaiters today. Its about 38km to Aldeanueva del Camino, no towns along the way so we are carrying all provisions.
About halfway there we come across a bar/tavern/cafe out in the middle of now where at a cross roads. Its about lunch time or close enough, its warm inside away from the wind. We have coffee and some chilly con carne with bread and avocado ..... then on our way as its still 4-5 hours of walking.
It becomes muggy as the afternoon progresses, with warmer conditions and the odd shower every now and again. We keep up a steady pace and arrive 5-5.30pm, check in and clean up. Wash and dry clothes then diner and its time for bed. We are all bushed.

Monday, 13th of May 2013 - day 83
Back to overcast with the odd patch of sun, not far to walk though, 11-12km to Carcaboso ... we have the occasional shower, so wet weather gear on and off as its muggy today.
No point trying to walk further as its some 38km to the next overnight stop and its looking like rain/showers and cooler weather for the next few days. Make Carcaboso 11.30 ish, have a coffee and a wander around .... feel like keeping on walking, but no too far to next stop. 38km tomorrow and possibly in the rain, and mud, yuk.
A light lunch and a bottle of white wine today, check in to Albergue, clean up, go for a wander then an early diner and to bed, big day tomorrow ..... 8-10 hours of walking and all provisions have to be carried.

Sunday, 12th of may 2013 - day 82
We leave Canaveral bright and early, some 27-28km to cover today. Its all on country lanes or dedicated camino track ..... rough, dusty and no or little protection from the sun or wind.
Its another of those high 20's low 30's days with a lot of walking and no towns on the path ... so all provisions have to be carried. well it took us almost 6 and a 1/2 hours to get to Galisteo, not hard walking as its mostly flat and some of it followed a canal getting near to Galisteo .... was tempted to go for a swim as at this stage it was hot, tempted as I was the water was freezing. As we get closer we see that our destination is a walled city, on a hill .... we venture through the gates and enter, its a mix of old and new. Finding a bar not far from the entrance we sit and order some beers, not overly hungry we have a mixed platter of tapas which we share.
Then its off to our albergue, by the time we get there its all booked out so are told of either the hotel or a guesthouse not far away. We choose the guesthouse, it lovely and has a beautiful walled garden. we clean up, wash and dry clothes and relax in the shade of the garden. We are offered to eat in with there family which we enthusiastically agree. We have a huge rib eye roast, yum with vegies and all the trimmings. We drink there home made red wine and have a great time. The sky has clouded and they say its going to get cooler over the next week with some rain.
Well will see what tomorrow brings.

Saturday, 11th of May 2013 - day 81
After a coolish night it is again clear blue skies and I suspect up around 30C again.We are in no great rush as its a mere 12km to Canaveral our next stop.As we have become used to there is no shade or protection from the weather on the path .... which is a mix of dedicated Camino path and rough farm/country roads. we arrive a bit after 11pm and get a feel for the town, get a coffee and then check out somewhere for lunch and check where our accom is to be. Like all the Villages its on the Hill, narrow, twisting lanes that go in all directions. Find a pleasant enough bar for lunch as its getting rather warm outside ..... then book in to accom and clean up wash cloths and dry them, which does not take long, then grab a short siesta.  As we are heading out for diner, our host suggests a restaurant a few hundred metres away, with town map in hand we negotiate the lanes and come out on a broad road and there is the restaurant. We find our host has phoned ahead and they are expecting us.They suggest a fixed priced chefs menu which is very reasonable and includes local wine.
We are impressed and the food just keeps coming, luckily most of it is light and not over filling. Not a rowdy night but very pleasant. As we head back to our rooms we feel the chill of the night, the sky is full of stars and the air is fresh and clean. It takes us a bit longer to get back as we miss a lane and well it adds another 100m or so.

Friday, 10th of May 2013 - day 80
Another bright and sunny day, low 30's expected, so up and out at first light. It a dusty track for the most part and we make Albergue del Embalse de Alcantara by about 1pm .... we covered about 22-23km to this beautiful spot on the banks of a huge lake/reservoir/dam. We have a picnic lunch overlooking the lake, wash and clean up and rest as its hot with little to no shade. We cook a simple diner of pasta with a tomato based vegetarian sauce and cheese ... with a bottle of red, we watch the sunset over the lake and then hit the hay.
Tomorrow we cover 11-12km to Canaveral.

Thursday, 9th of May 2013 - day 79
Up early, its a bright sunny day, energy finally coming back. With breakfast and coffee settling we are off and walking. The country is pretty well treeless, gently undulating and warm going. Its going to be quite hot today, up around the high 20's - low 30's. It takes about 3 hours to get to Casar de Caceres, which is where we will stay as its quite a distance to the next accommodation place. we covered about 12 km today, enough for me, as I am feeling a bit worn by the time we sit and enjoy a pre-lunch beer. There is a tree lined lake in the town and we buy some goodies from the shop and have a picnic on the shore, picnic tables abound. Its pleasant, shaded and we relax and enjoy. The shop is but 30m away for cool drinks etc. Then off to book in and clean up and wash the dust off, everything dries in no time as its very warm now. Back to the lake and a bit of a siesta in the shade ..... diner and an early night.

Wednesday, 8th of May 2013 - day 78
Feeling some what better today, though taking it easy still. The weather is perfect at the moment, mit 20's and sunny. Think I will be ok to continue walking in the morning.

Tuesday, 7th of May 2013 - day 77
Had to drag myself out of bed this morning, feeling low ...... trudged on to Caceres only 11km but enough for me. Went to see a doctor, he suggested more than likely some contaminated water and maybe a parasite, some pathology and with luck maybe will know tomorrow. I suggested to the others that they may want to continue on ...... but they said they will wait for a few days.
Got a call late in the day to say it was a parasite and drop in for a script. Got it filled and hoping for results. Guess this tells me to stick to bottled water, even in restaurants or may be stick to beer or wine.

Monday, 6th of May 2013 -  day 76
Yes, great day, sunny, mild to warm .... 15km to Aldea dal Cano and a well deserved coffee,
 and another 7 km to Valdesalor .... lunch, accom and well rest, still feeling tired and no energy.

Sunday 5th of May 2013 - day 75
Awake at first light, feel dry and washed out but OK. Lots of water and some energy drink and we head out. Its all country roads and tracks through the country side .... easy pleasant walking, the weather is back to sunny and low to mid 20's. After a few hours My energy levels are low and I'm into the chocolate bars for a sugar fix .... we make it to Alcuescar 12.30 or there abouts and I am feeling bushed. I'm hesitant about what to eat, my normally cast iron gut is feel a bit tender, I stick to light foods, some grilled fish and a salad and a bottle of coke .... great for a quick sugar fix. After lunch we find our accom and I have a siesta for about 4 - 5 hours. I awake to find the others have done my washing for me and its dry and neatly folded.
Diner and well I'm up to now .... feeling a lot better but still tired.

Saturday 4th of May 2013 - day 74
Apologies, as catching up due to being a bit under the weather, stomach bug or something.
Decided to hit the road, first 6km to Proserpina we walked along the side of the road on a green walking/bicycle track with a huge concrete barrier between us and the cars, great walking. Its low rolling hills, farm land with crops all green and lush.As we come over a hill we see this large lake ahead - Embaise de Proserpina. We grab a coffee here then keep walking and for the next hour we walk a narrow paved road with little room for us to avoid the traffic, luckily we only see 2 cars.then onto a dirt track for the rest of the way. We pass through a small town called El Carrasclejo, its neat and tidy and white, every thing is painted white. Another couple of km and we are in Aljucen, our stop for the night as its another 20km to the next Town on the Camino.We have lunch clean up then I get sick, no diner for me all I want to do is stay put and close to the conveniences.

Friday, 3rd of May 2013 - day 73
Have been wandering around this lovely city, the weather is sunny and a very comfortable 23C.
Met up with some fellow pilgrims and had an extended lunch with way to much vino. Had a big siesta late arvo then off to diner and and only a glass or two with my meal.
Not sure whether we will hit the road or stay another day? Will discuss that over breakfast in the light of day.

Thursday, 2nd of May 2013 - day 72
Another cool overcast morning, we rug up and start walking .... not a huge distance today, about 16-17km to Merida. half our walk today was adjacent to the main road ..... you don't always see it, but the noise is there, that can be annoying. After about 1 1/2 hours we veer away from the noise and wonder along a track beside a minor country road, little traffic, its flat going ... we make the outskirts of Merida after about 3 1/2 hours. cross the Rio Guadiana and enter Merida .... this is a large - ish rural town/city ... Roman ruins abound. We book into one of the local hotels for several nights as there is lots to see here. Clean up and head out for lunch, its almost warm with the temp up around 19-20C with the sun popping out occasionally ..... better weather on the way. We have a Yum Cha lunch in a Chinese restaurant that we stumble upon ..... then do the sights after some shopping for the basics (toiletry stuff mainly) ..... then onto the ruins of the "Anfiteatro" and its environs, its actually in pretty good nick considering its age. This takes the rest of the afternoon and early evening, as there is lots to see. We have diner and then back to our rooms, its around midnight again and feeling a tad tired.

Wednesday, 1st of May 2013 - day 71
Its cool and overcast as we set of this morning, hopefully the rain has gone ..... at least its not windy. The path takes us again through farm land, it is relatively flat, though a touch muddy in places. We make Almendralejo after about 3 hours walking and stop for a break and a snack, its still quite cool at about 9-10C. After a warming hot chocolate we hit the trail again unfortunately the track follows a road which also follows a major toll road, so even though we cant see it we can hear it .... after an hour and a half of this we veer away from the other roads and head off up a country track .... quiet again and then an hour or so later we reach Torremejia, we have covered some 27km and a bit.We find a bar and have lunch, no sitting outside as its still very cool. No fire place but its warm and dry and the food is filling, some sort of local sausage with smashed potatoes and a tasty gravy/sauce. A bottle of a sweetish red then find our digs for the night and clean up ... boots need a good clean and wax, wore the gaiters today due to the potential of mud. Of around town to check out the sites, its still very cool.
An early-ish diner for these parts ... a monster steak (whole ribeye rack) with bowls of boiled spuds, minted carrots and mixed greens (the meals are huge), that's why we share, this fed the four of us and its a meal for one???? A yummy red to wash it down with then a short walk to before going back to the guesthouse we are staying in, a bit more comfortable than the Aubergue and quieter.

Tuesday, 30th of April 2013 - day 70 (10 weeks into the walk)
Well its another cold wet-ish day, menacing skies, a cruel wind and either 4km, 19km or 33km today..
We stop for a coffee and warm up at Santos de Maimora, an hour into the walk. then its up, out and trudge on ..... we are walking on gravel roads meandering through farm country and we pass the occasional farmer going about his business.
Another 3 hours and we reach Villafranca de los Barros ... we are frozen through and call it a day ( the wind was freezing and chilled us to the core).
Lunch by a roaring open fire was a treat with brandies to start us off.
We are in a Hotel tonight, so more privacy than usual.
We eat at the hotel as its wild and woolly outside .... hope it has all blown over by the morning.The food had a definite Indian flavour to it, found out later the chef was from Madras.
Off to bed now, the wind takes it out of you even more than the heat.

Monday 29th of April 2013 - day 69
Walked to Zafra some 24-25km today, some what adverse conditions, cool cloudy and the odd shower ...... sort of puts a dampener on things. Well wet gear on and off all the way, made Zafra early afternoon and settled in. We get cleaned up then a late lunch and a relaxed afternoon.

Liz is over the foot/ankle thing and walking well, so a tour of the town and its sights then diner and back to the digs for the night.

Sunday 28th of April 2013 - Day 68
Start out in bright sunshine but coolish, we are heading to Fuente de Cantos about 21km up the dusty track. The terrain is flat to low hills, we meander through open plains and light scrub. We are dawdling along , not wanting to put too much stress on Liz's foot. By 1pm we are sitting in a bar in Fuente de Cantos, we note the cloud build up so maybe we are in for a change in the weather, but its still warm, mid 20's. We check into the Albergue/Hostel and clean up ..... its dorm conditions but the place is only half full, so we can spread out a bit.

Saturday 27th of April 2013 - day 67
We are on our way, Liz with a lightened pack which we are sharing and tentatively head out... we have 20km to the next town. We walk paths that are as direct as possible and as far away as possible to main roads. We walk through pasture with cattle grazing and more Olive groves, the land is flattish and easy walking. The day is heating up, heading toward high 20's .... but we hope to be at Monesterio prior to it getting there.
We make it about 12.30pm and are relieved she had no problems.
Lunch then clean up as we are dusty and sweaty, not a great mix.
Ah its Saturday again so diner at the bar is a lively event, there is some soccer game on the TV and the locals are really getting into it. They are all happy and singing so I guess there team won.
Well home to the Hostel and bed.

Friday 26th of April 2013 - day 66
Decided on a rest day as Liz's foot was still sore a bit swollen still.
So did a bit of looking around town and generally relaxing. For some reason no broadband or phone coverage today.
Its Saturday morning and coverage has returned though it does drop out now and again, Liz can get her boot on so will see how we go .... its 20km to the next town, being Monesterio. We have taken most of Liz's load from her pack and will see how we go. More later.

Thursday, 25th of April 2013 - day 65
Did.t get moving till about 8am this morning, lingered over our coffee's. Its going to be a bright sunny day today back up in the high 20's, so time to push on. Soon as we leave town its bush tracks all the way to El Real de la Jara (approx 15km), shouldn't take us more than about 3 hours then its another 20km to Monesterio .... we are in 2 minds, do we or don't we? Well that is covered when Liz takes a tumble on some uneven ground, rolls her ankle and hurts her shoulder in the fall. We are about half way to El Real de la Jara, about an hour and a half in to the walk. We sit and rest for a while, strap here foot up and check out the shoulder .... a graze, and most likely some bruising. We take turns in carrying her pack and shuffle on after about half an hour she is walking ok and we make the next town about midday. we call it a day and settle in, feet up and rest, once the boots are of her foot swells, we do the ice thing to get the swelling down, it is a nice shade of blue from bruising .... but the ice works and the swelling doesn't seem so bad. Will wait and see tomorrow, may have to have a rest day?

Wednesday, 24th of April 2013 - day 64
Today we walk some 29-30km, its a bit cooler first thing, about 7-8 degrees. We walk near the road for the first 10-12km or so then its across country through groves of Olive trees and low hills.
There are no towns and we see another group about 1km behind us but again we seem to have the track to ourselves. We make Almaden de la Plata around 2pm .... lunch is first on the agenda then book into the Albergue, wash and clean clothes and ourselves. Have a wonder around town then diner with some other pilgrims and an early night .... the dorms are relatively quiet about half full so lots of room to spread out.

Tuesday, 23rd of April 2013 - day 63
9 weeks of walking and we have just started the Via de la Plata .... today was a short one 18 - 19km of flat but dusty trails, no towns but a bit of a walk adjacent to a road for the last few km.
Castilblanco de los Arroyos is a pleasant and hospitable town. we are in the Albergue here. The weather is warmish, mid to high twenties during the day. We walked today and saw few other pilgrims till we arrived .... we seem to walk slower than the hares and faster than the tortoises, so seemed to have the track to our selves, mmmmmm, nice.
Lunch and diner at a nearby bar. Tomorrow a minimum walk of about 30km to next accom.

Monday, 22nd of April 2013 - day 62
We are up early-ish and start walking, we got our first stamp of the Via de la Plata the other day, so are on our way following the scallop shell. We are on the way, about an 2hours we reach Santiponce, we stop for breakfast and coffee and reflect on our time to get to this point and our time in Seville.
Then its up and off as we leave the the suburbs we leave the roads and follow the camino path, no cars allowed. It is great to be able to just walk and not worry about getting run over. Just north of Santiponce are the ruins of a Roman Amphitheatre .... we reflect for a while then on again, relaxing walking ..... we meet other pilgrims .... them spick and span and enthusiastic about there great journey .... they are stunned when we say we are 100km plus into our pilgrimage already.There is one middle aged guy who seems to pop up regularly during our walk to talk to us, we find it annoying after a while, but we are polite ... we wonder if we have become insular to others, protecting our space?
we reach Guillena early afternoon its pleasant enough being around mid 20's. Lunch with several other pilgrims and our interloper. then off to stand in line for when the Albergue opens.
We get a room that accommodates 6, well not too bad luckily no one else fills the spare bunk and we relax, have diner .... give the pilgrims meal a go and a pitcher of vino, then  emails and sleep.

Sunday 21st of April 2013 - day 61
I was up relatively early, alas the others are slow movers this morning, the Spanish night life has taken its toll. I brew up fresh coffee and feed it to them .... after showering and coffee they are ready to continue exploring ..... though I figure it will be at a snails pace.
We all figure a hearty breakfast will do the trick .... so breakfast/brunch .... well its now about 3 hours later and we are meandering the lane ways and streets of the old Seville, cobble stoned streets, white washed walls flowers in pots all over, very pretty. As the afternoon wears on it quite warmish but not excessive. We head back down toward the river and grace the seats of a restaurant/bar on the banks of the river .... a relaxing and scenic spot. We are not overly hungry but nibble as we like the spot and don't want to be moved on ... as long as we keep buying food or drink we can stay. We tipped the weighter early so he is in expectation of a later tip as well and is quite attentive and helpful with suggestions. He suggests a goats cheese fried (reminiscent of the Greek Saganaki), we accompany it with mixed salad and char grilled octopus tentacles.
Well after a a relaxing and we spaced out late lunch its back to the digs for a siesta.
A quiet relaxed late diner and some discussions as to are we on the move tomorrow?
It comes down to lets wait and see how we feel ..... though I feel we will make a start at least.

Saturday, 20th of April 2013 - day 60
Big day today, visited a theme park, "Isla Magica" fun, wet and wild, roller coasters and giant water rides .... a bit like the Gold Coast theme parks, but with a Spanish influence. Crap food inside, all fast food junk. Later visited "Torre del Oro", great then on to eating and drinking which we seem to surpass at.
Nibblies in a bar over looking the river with great tapas and later at an open air restaurant in the Piatsa with a decatation diner including all drinks .... then walk home and attend to emails etc.
Its still lively outside and a bit after 2am ... Saturday night it seems to go on till 3-4am .... but its been a long day, so to bed for me.

ps: spell check always picks me up on restaurante as it is here and makes me change it to reastauant?

Friday, 19th of April 2013 - day 59
We are in Seville by 9.30am only 9-10km to the old part of the city, we have breakfast in an old cobblestone street/lane, umbrellas already up as its 22-23C already and the sun is starting to get a sting to it. We have coffee and these yummy cinnamon flavoured donut like things .... yum (very moorish).
But thinking of the waistline only a couple, promise . We need to walk breaky off so on to Catedral de Santa Maria de la Sede and the Giralda ..... wow and what a climb.
Its now about 1pm, lunch time, adjacent to and with tables and chairs in the park we locate where to eat. we savour the local delicacies of the tapa platters with a delicate white wine .... not too much as we wish to go to the Alcazar this afternoon. We tear ourselves away check in to our Hostel and clean up and then of to the 14th C Royal Residence ... reminiscent of the Al Hambra in Grenada but totally different, magnificent. As we walk past bars and restaurants we can't help but stop and have another snack and this time some Sangria, just for a change.
Diner is a n after dark experience (from pm on), of all things we scramble down into the cellar of a building, all very medieval, tapestries, swords and shields on the walls, bis sconces holding huge candles attached toe the walls. Great food, sort of like Spanish Yum Cha as the food is brought around on trolleys.
One trolley a roaming spit with suckling pig slowly turning on a spit  or a full lamb or a small goat all carved at the table. Well we eat too much, drink too much and have the best time .... and there were flamenco dancers to boot ..... and I think we were the only non locals here.
Well I hope this reads well as its almost 2am ... but don't think I could sleep, we  all 4 are sipping on mocha - coffees and attending to our writings etc. Can we survive Seville .... too right, can't wait for tomorrow.

Thursday 18th of April 2013 - day 58
Its going to be warmish again today, high 20's ... the overnight low was 18C and that when we hit the road again .... its about 7.30am. we are soon again on country roads heading to our accom just this side of  Montequinto, just under 22km or 4-5hours of walking. Its flat and green, but as we get closer to Seville, Even these country roads and farm lanes, have heavier and more frequent traffic.
Our accom is adjacent to a large park with numerous cafes, bars and restaurants scattered around it.
By 2pm its reached the high 20's so we savour the shade of the restaurant's umbrellas and awnings.
We have Paella with saffron rice and sangria ..... rather enjoyable.
Find our hostel and settle in, clean up, though the roads were all paved today, so no dust.
Start checking out where to stay in Seville as we a but a stones throw away.
Later diner at a near by bar nearly all outside as even at 10pm its a very balmy 26C.
Back to the hostel and some emails, blog and sleep.

Wednesday, 17th of April 2013 - day 57
We started out before the sun came up, it was light but just. The road is flat and crunchy (gravel), the country side is green and lush, its 18-19 deg. C at the moment and only going to get warmer .... expected to get into the low 30's today.Its uneventful, not a tree in site, as the sun comes up it starts to heat quickly .... we are on a mission to keep it moving early before it does heat up to much.
By 10am we are enjoying a cool drink at Los Molares. Its about 24-25C and we have about 6-7km to go to Utrera, our destination (some 21km all up for the day). We continue on, still on back country roads ... we reach our destination a bit before midday .... get another cool drink from the service station as we enter and sit in the shade of a tree in a small park. We find a restaurant with a shaded area outside and relax over lunch with some freshly squeezed orange juice ... its an AFD  for all today.
Find our hotel and settle in, do our washing hang it on the verandah and its dry in no time.
A siesta in the cool of the air-con them a late diner, its near to mid night and its still 22C, but we will sleep well, may even need a blanket.

Tuesday 16th of April 2013 - day 56.
Its going to be another hot one today, 28C or above ..... so out at first light. Not a long walk but nothing between us and our destination, but flat open farmlands .... no cover, we walk on the road, paved and luckily little traffic. We make El Corinil ... 19km away in a relaxed 4 1/2 hours.
A bit of a dawdle but new it wasn't far, but its still up around mid 20's by midday. We can just about feel Seville in our grasp 2 maybe 3 days walk depending on the towns ..... don't feel like another long walk in the heat and we are in for at least a week of this weather if not more.
We have a bight to eat in the hotel as its to early to get into our rooms, as guests we can use the back garden ... its cool and relaxing. Later we snooze  ... then enjoy diner in the garden .... its a warm balmy night still 20C plus at mid night.

Monday 15th of April 2013 - day 55
We are up early the weather is heating up, we have 28km to travel, mainly on gravel roads, tracks ..... sometimes you wonder where they are taking you. No towns on route so made sure we have lots of fluids and some snacks. we are looking at between 6 to 8 hours walk today depending on the conditions. Its 7.30am when we leave its light but the sun wont come up till about 8am and the temp. is mid teens already. The road is dusty windy and gentle hills .... the GPS when it works says we are walking well .... our pace a bit over 5km an hour ...the country is low scrubby cover over a rather dessert country side. After a couple of hours we hit the main road, turn south and walk this clean asphalt road for a hundred metres or so then turn onto an even rougher narrower track that leads into the dessert ... the GPS says this is the road .... we know its true but its just a one lane nothing road.
We follow it though rough country its getting quite hot now, its still only 10am,but over 20C and no cover .... after about an hour on this track it gets wider and the countryside flatter, we are in farm land again then we hid bitumen again and a good road, only 11km to our destination.
We make Moron de la Frontera at 1pm ... 5 1/2 hours, very good time. We stop for lunch and a well deserved beer, we are hot, dusty and need a shower I have a bocadillo with omlete and salad, light and tasty and a second beer.
We hunt out our accom. and veg out for the rest of the day .... we eat in and enjoy the balmy evening weather.

Sunday, the 14th of April 2013 - day 54
We have to head 19km north to the next town for accommodation or 40km wast which is the way we need to go. alas non of us feel like a 49km hike through the hills which is what we would have had.
We head out in the cool of the morning but know it will get hotter, the skies a bright and sunny. We follow the asphalt north for about 6-7km then turn onto a gravel track it has no sign posts and winds off into the rolling hills. We trust our GPS and start the gravelly dusty march. the track twists and turn through the hills. we arrive at Puerto de la Encina about midday, its a picturesque little hills village, and it has what we require a small but hospitable guesthouse. We make ourselves comfortable and settle in for the rest of the day/night.

Saturday, 13th of April 2013 - day 53
As we leave Campillos we have a choice of following a highway slightly north which would take us through Los Corrales on our way to El Saucejo (25.5km) or slightly south on a country lane with no other town between us and El Saucejo (24.9km). We provision up and head out on the country lane, the land here reminds me of the meseta in northern Spain, flatish but always rolling hills. The only trees to be seen are the olive groves or newly ploughed paddocks some with crops already sprouting.
The day starts out cool but its bright sun shine so know it wont stay that way, expected top around 24-25C and dry. we know its most likely a 5-6 hour walk as long as there are no major hills to climb.
We reach our destination around 1pm, we find our accom. first but its too early to check in. We leave our packs there and wander of to a near by bar that has been recommended .... there is an outside garden, well more like a terrace with pot plants and an over hanging tree, we sit in and enjoy the food and beverages, lunch is a platter of mixed tapas washed down by some beers. We reflect upon that its Saturday again and where did the week go ..... we will spend next week end in Seville as we are only about 100km from there. After lunch back to the pension and clean up. Liz and I go for a tour of the town the other 2  have a kip. The town is a bit of an enigma some beautiful architecture and palm lined streets and also quite a bit of petty ordinary type of buildings, the town is not overly large and is gathered around the roads that come and go. We enjoy a coffee and then a wine watching the world go by ... back to our rooms and diner ... it may be a small town but I think every one was out for Saturday night .... a lot of fun diner was great ..... a pork dish tonight done in a roulard style with a yummy tangy sauce served with a yum cabbage dish and roasti potato's .... quite tasty.

Friday, 12th of April 2013 = day 52
As we head out of town its cool overcast and we scan the skies for rain, we are looking at 2 possibilities today Bobadilla at 12.5 km or Bobadilla-Estacion at 14km. The road is flat and we seem to be in a hurry today. We make it to Bobadilla by 10am have a coffee and decide to keep going, we also pass through Bobadilla-Estacion and look toward Campillos another 16km .... nothing in between but flat plains with distant hills. the weather is good for walking as its still coolish about 14C ..... we must have been on a mission today as there was little talk today just pushing on.
We make our destination by 12.30 and are happy there was no rain. We have lunch, find our lodgings for the night and settle in. A bit of a wander through the town, diner then home.

Thursday, 11th of April 2013 - day 51
The towns are well spaced apart here so a slight diversion and we take country road, state highways etc to Antequera, some 20km away otherwise it was 31km along the A-92M to Mollina or near 40km on country roads to Alameda. So Antequera it was ... and a very scenic route as well flat farmlands with hills, more like huge rocks thrust up out of the country side here and there. the day cool patchy cloud low 20's at its best. Not a long day's walking, no towns to distract us, so have to carry all our provisions ... no shade, no where to stop and rest except to sit on the side of the road. The last few km's through modern light industrial development. We make our destination just after midday into the heart of the old town .... find a pleasant place to enjoy our lunch then off to our Hostel for the night. There's a Parador here, would have been nice but well maybe a tad expensive. We are comfortable and its clean, we can wash and dry our cloths. All clean and relaxed we head out for diner to a bar about 3 doors down the road. Its simple but tasty food .... BBQ lamb with some Moroccan flavours, potatoes with anchovies and lemon and a tangy fennel salad ..... yum.

Wednesday, 10th of April 2013 -day 50
We were in a delemer today follow the side road of the A-92n or the country roads and and 10km to the walk.Sanity prevailed and we took the shorter path of 21km basically ... well about half distance was along side the freeway. We did manage some quieter roads as well.
Its a bright and sunny day, but coolish in the early morning, we pass through only one town of any significance La Palma (we passed through a La Palma yesterday?) Ah well Coffee and snacks there then on to Archidona. We are all glad we took the shorter route as it is getting quite warm when we arrive about 12.30-1pm ish. We find a very pleasant bar with a great court yard and relax in the shade of a huge tree. We spend several hours here then its off to locate our accom, an old convent on the other side of the town, sounds a long way but its only a few hundred metres away. The day is very warm now and we think back to if we had taken the quiet country route we would just be arriving about now, hot and bothered and tired as we would have had to carry quite a bit of extra water and energy drinks as there were no towns on that route.
So we spend the rest of the day with our feet up with the odd beer or two in the shade, followed by diner, then back to our rooms and here I am doing the blog again.

Tuesday, 9th of April 2013 - day 49
Its 7 weeks into our escape from what family and friends would say is normal life (though I think. all are secretly wishing it was them).
We awake to a bright though coolish morning, not a long day but still about 23km, for the most part flat but some undulating country late in the walk. We pass through beautiful country fresh and alive with spring. The towns of Huetor Tajar, La Esperanza and La Palma are walked through prior to finding our Hotel in Riofrio, its comfortable and has all the amenities for such a small town. we clean up and relax in the shade for lunch, its warmish, low to mid 20's, but the sun is beginning to get a bight to it.We are all on the Caesar Salad for lunch today with Cold Cured Salmon in it, yum. We also got stuck into some Campari soda's (its been a while since I had that, last).
Had the eventual afternoon snooze but today on sun lounges in the shade. Diner outside as its still warmish ..... duck breast for mains (cooked rare-ish) with mixed veg. and a very palatable red. The gas heaters are switched on as the evening progress's. The sky is full of stars ... I had forgotten how magnificent it can be. Then its time to hit the hay (well get the blog, emails done).

Monday, 8th of April 2013 - day 48
We depart Romilla early morning in overcast condition, with the possibility of showers. Heading north to avoid having to walk the side road to the A-92N, initially its more of the tree plantations.
About an hour into our walk we reach Valderrubio, a largish town ... we pass a bar and consider getting a coffee, but continue on, its flat walking on pavement with very few vehicles. Obeilor is another 3/4 of an hour, here we do take a short break and grab a coffee. Its about 10km to the next town, we walk through farmland , orchards and olive groves ... we don't see a car or other person on this section, until we are entering Tacon a sleepy town we only see a few people wandering around and keep going. Luckily for us the rain has held of or missed us and an hour later we arrive at our destination for the day Millanueva Mesia. We walked about 26km today through freshly ploughed paddocks and fruit trees with new growth, the weather was cloudy but mild, the terrain - dead flat.
We partake of some refreshments and relax over lunch. Check into our hotel and clean up. A light diner and hit the hay.