Wednesday, 29th of May 2013 - day 99
Realised today that we missed our turn off at Zamora to head of to Chaves in Portugal .... we are still on the traditional way, ah well may be next time.
This morning was overcast, but mild .... during the day some sun, some showers and mid to high teens weather wise. About 6 hours of walking today, terrain low flattish hills and basically following the N-525 .... the noise of distant trucks and cars ever present.
About an hour and a quarter we enter Rionegro del Puente ... we replenish some supplies at the small general store/mini mart and carry on ..... Mombuey a larger town is about 2 hours further on. This is the largest town we will encounter so go to the super mercarto and stock up on things ... in case we have to supply our own food (often a possibility).
Another hour of walking and we enter Valdemerilla, we carry on ... showers hit us sporadically, just enough to be annoying. About 50 minutes later we pass through Cernadilla, and less than half an hour later we arrive at San Salvador de Palazuelo .... a small town/community .... we have to hang about for a while to be let in too the Albergue and we settle in for the night preparing our own diner.
Wednesday, 29 May 2013
Tuesday, 28 May 2013
Tuesday, 28th of May 2013 - day 98
We awake to a cold gloomy morning, the odd shower now and again. We rug up and set out, we follow the river for a while, and not far off the highway, though not much traffic on it ... after about 2 and a quarter hours we venture into Calzadill de Tera. We look to buy a coffee, none to be found, so keep walking ... half an hour later we walk into Olleros de Tera ... again no luck.
The rain has mostly held off and and we stumble into Villar de Farfon early afternoon. We are staying in a private pilgrims hostel tonight. This town is smaller than any of the other towns ... the host is friendly and looks after us. We wash and clean up, Diner was a big bowl of spaghetti and crunchy bread, with red wine to wash it all down. Its warm, comfortable and dry.
We awake to a cold gloomy morning, the odd shower now and again. We rug up and set out, we follow the river for a while, and not far off the highway, though not much traffic on it ... after about 2 and a quarter hours we venture into Calzadill de Tera. We look to buy a coffee, none to be found, so keep walking ... half an hour later we walk into Olleros de Tera ... again no luck.
The rain has mostly held off and and we stumble into Villar de Farfon early afternoon. We are staying in a private pilgrims hostel tonight. This town is smaller than any of the other towns ... the host is friendly and looks after us. We wash and clean up, Diner was a big bowl of spaghetti and crunchy bread, with red wine to wash it all down. Its warm, comfortable and dry.
Monday, 27 May 2013
Monday, 27th of May 2013 - day 97
The day started of coolish but clear, looking like another great day ..... a mix of flat and low hills today, and trees. We are walking north again on gravel tracks and country lanes, first town we come to is Bercianos de Valverde after 3 hours of walking .... we are looking forward to a coffee and a break. The town is farely large, but we don't see a sole, its like its deserted, don't see a bar, cafe, shop and before we realise we are leaving town .... no dogs, cats or people .... weird.
We press on, its nice with the sun on our backs. An hour and a half later we walk into Santa Croya de Tera .... we are hopeful of a coffee, but alas we are disappointed again .... we carry on. We follow a river on to the next town A km and a half up the road is Santa Marta de Tera, our stop for the night and finally a cup of coffee .... no feel like a beer, as its pack down for the day. Well almost after lunch have to cart it to the Aubergue. The day is clouding over and its starting to look like rain again as we head to our digs for the night. We have covered about 23km today, we have seen very few other pilgrims and the Aubergue is only half full, so plenty of room to spread out. We clean up, wash and dry our clothes .... as we head out for diner is raining lightly, so coats on .... we hope it is but a passing shower and not setting in again.
The day started of coolish but clear, looking like another great day ..... a mix of flat and low hills today, and trees. We are walking north again on gravel tracks and country lanes, first town we come to is Bercianos de Valverde after 3 hours of walking .... we are looking forward to a coffee and a break. The town is farely large, but we don't see a sole, its like its deserted, don't see a bar, cafe, shop and before we realise we are leaving town .... no dogs, cats or people .... weird.
We press on, its nice with the sun on our backs. An hour and a half later we walk into Santa Croya de Tera .... we are hopeful of a coffee, but alas we are disappointed again .... we carry on. We follow a river on to the next town A km and a half up the road is Santa Marta de Tera, our stop for the night and finally a cup of coffee .... no feel like a beer, as its pack down for the day. Well almost after lunch have to cart it to the Aubergue. The day is clouding over and its starting to look like rain again as we head to our digs for the night. We have covered about 23km today, we have seen very few other pilgrims and the Aubergue is only half full, so plenty of room to spread out. We clean up, wash and dry our clothes .... as we head out for diner is raining lightly, so coats on .... we hope it is but a passing shower and not setting in again.
Sunday, 26 May 2013
Sunday, 26th of May 2013 - day 96
A coolish start to the morning, but clear skies .... its going to be a beautiful day, low 20's max. We have now left the plains country and are heading into the hills, with trees and all.still comfortable walking as the hills are low and rolling, it makes for an interesting change to the terrain and quite sudden. A bit after an hours walking we cross a huge single lane stone bridge that traverses the Rio Esla ..... there was a 5km speed limit on the bridge, pitty no one paid any attention to it (well no one in a car or truck). About 11.30 we strode into Faramontanos de Tabara, this town has lots of those underground store houses, like we saw on the Camino Frances.
Around 1pm we walk into Tabara, a substantial town .... we seek out a restraunt/bar for lunch then off to the Aubergue to settle in and clean up. later a wander around then an early diner and ready for a good nights rest.
A coolish start to the morning, but clear skies .... its going to be a beautiful day, low 20's max. We have now left the plains country and are heading into the hills, with trees and all.still comfortable walking as the hills are low and rolling, it makes for an interesting change to the terrain and quite sudden. A bit after an hours walking we cross a huge single lane stone bridge that traverses the Rio Esla ..... there was a 5km speed limit on the bridge, pitty no one paid any attention to it (well no one in a car or truck). About 11.30 we strode into Faramontanos de Tabara, this town has lots of those underground store houses, like we saw on the Camino Frances.
Around 1pm we walk into Tabara, a substantial town .... we seek out a restraunt/bar for lunch then off to the Aubergue to settle in and clean up. later a wander around then an early diner and ready for a good nights rest.
Saturday, 25 May 2013
Saturday, 25th of May 2013 - day 95
Its a bright sunny day, coolish to start with, but not a cloud in the sky. Planning on walking about 23km today .... so a comfortable distance on flat country. Get moving about 7.30 ish, we a following country roads that parallel a minor highway, like yesterday .... the road/track is gravel and in good nick, the farms here look like its all wheat or grain of some type.After about 2 1/2 hours we walk into Fontanillus de Castro, we are thinking of a coffee, a cool drink ... we are walking out and nothing, the town is small, there is an Aubergue, but closed for cleaning at this time of day.
About 45 minutes later we walk into the next town, being Riego del Camino and finally a bar, its about 11am ish .... no not too early for a beer and its only another 6-7km to our final destination for the day.
Half an hour or so, sitting and enjoying a beer in the sun and its packs on and off walking again.
Its about 1pm ish as we walk into Granja de Moreruela .... lunch in the shade of a tree with the help of a beer to wash it down then off to the Aubergue and check in, wash and clean up.
Its a bright sunny day, coolish to start with, but not a cloud in the sky. Planning on walking about 23km today .... so a comfortable distance on flat country. Get moving about 7.30 ish, we a following country roads that parallel a minor highway, like yesterday .... the road/track is gravel and in good nick, the farms here look like its all wheat or grain of some type.After about 2 1/2 hours we walk into Fontanillus de Castro, we are thinking of a coffee, a cool drink ... we are walking out and nothing, the town is small, there is an Aubergue, but closed for cleaning at this time of day.
About 45 minutes later we walk into the next town, being Riego del Camino and finally a bar, its about 11am ish .... no not too early for a beer and its only another 6-7km to our final destination for the day.
Half an hour or so, sitting and enjoying a beer in the sun and its packs on and off walking again.
Its about 1pm ish as we walk into Granja de Moreruela .... lunch in the shade of a tree with the help of a beer to wash it down then off to the Aubergue and check in, wash and clean up.
Friday, 24 May 2013
Friday 24th of May 2013 - day 94
A leisurely start to the day, cool and crisp first thing, but clear skies. As we depart Zamora we stop for coffee, and then about an hour later at Roales we grab another one. The country is flat and treeless, we follow gravel roads that run parallel with a highway that seems to vary between a couple of hundred metres away to up to half a km in places.We make Montamartaa bit after midday and relax in the sun, its high teens temperature wise with a top of 20-21C later. We have a look around the town, Find the best bar/restaurantie and sit in the sun ... the old men of the village are lined up backs to the wall talking and sipping there drinks. After lunch its time to check into the Aubergue, clean up, do our washing and put it on the line, then off to check out the church and the roman ruins (which are all along the Via de la Plata). The church is across dry river bed lake bed and on a hill, we cross an old roman bridge to get there, like all the churches, plain on the outside, but ornate and lavish inside.
Back to the restaurant and diner in the early evening sun (the hottest part of the day) then back to the Aubergue and settle in for the night.
A leisurely start to the day, cool and crisp first thing, but clear skies. As we depart Zamora we stop for coffee, and then about an hour later at Roales we grab another one. The country is flat and treeless, we follow gravel roads that run parallel with a highway that seems to vary between a couple of hundred metres away to up to half a km in places.We make Montamartaa bit after midday and relax in the sun, its high teens temperature wise with a top of 20-21C later. We have a look around the town, Find the best bar/restaurantie and sit in the sun ... the old men of the village are lined up backs to the wall talking and sipping there drinks. After lunch its time to check into the Aubergue, clean up, do our washing and put it on the line, then off to check out the church and the roman ruins (which are all along the Via de la Plata). The church is across dry river bed lake bed and on a hill, we cross an old roman bridge to get there, like all the churches, plain on the outside, but ornate and lavish inside.
Back to the restaurant and diner in the early evening sun (the hottest part of the day) then back to the Aubergue and settle in for the night.
Thursday, 23 May 2013
Thursday, 23rd of may 2013 - day 93
Weather sunny and pleasant, nights cool to cold days slow to warm up and quick to cool down once its dark. Wandered around town yesterday being a tourist, checked out the old fort, cathedral and some of the local restaurants/bars. had a fit of the blues late today, don't know why, checked emails etc .... guess it will make itself apparent in the near future.
Weather sunny and pleasant, nights cool to cold days slow to warm up and quick to cool down once its dark. Wandered around town yesterday being a tourist, checked out the old fort, cathedral and some of the local restaurants/bars. had a fit of the blues late today, don't know why, checked emails etc .... guess it will make itself apparent in the near future.
Wednesday, 22 May 2013
Wednesday, 22nd of May 2013 - day 92
We awaken to a clear sky and sunshine, its still cool, but will warm up ... we start out early, the country is dead flat and treeless. We walk for about 3 hours before reaching our first town, Villanueva de Compeau ... we have covered about 13-14km (its a very small town). We decide to head on, though we have about 18 km to Zamora, being our next stop.
The day is pleasant with sun on our back and a spring in our step.
We are in outer Zamora about 2.30pm and enter the city about 3pm or a bit after, we ate energy bars and drinks along the way, so make our way to our accom. We will take a rest day here as there is much to see. We check in and do the usual clean up and wash. then its out and about, we find a bar that we can enjoy the late afternoon -evening warmth of the sun. We have a late lunch/early diner and as the sun goes down we venture back to our rooms.
We awaken to a clear sky and sunshine, its still cool, but will warm up ... we start out early, the country is dead flat and treeless. We walk for about 3 hours before reaching our first town, Villanueva de Compeau ... we have covered about 13-14km (its a very small town). We decide to head on, though we have about 18 km to Zamora, being our next stop.
The day is pleasant with sun on our back and a spring in our step.
We are in outer Zamora about 2.30pm and enter the city about 3pm or a bit after, we ate energy bars and drinks along the way, so make our way to our accom. We will take a rest day here as there is much to see. We check in and do the usual clean up and wash. then its out and about, we find a bar that we can enjoy the late afternoon -evening warmth of the sun. We have a late lunch/early diner and as the sun goes down we venture back to our rooms.
Tuesday, 21 May 2013
Tuesday, 21st of May 2013 - day 91
Weather a bit better today, as we set out, yes its still quite cool but only scattered cloud and sun about .... expecting a top of about 18C later in the day. Not the most interesting of walks today as much of it will be near or beside the A-66, we are never more than 500m from it, the land is flat with no trees ..... the sound travels a long way here. There are no towns along the way , well on our path anyway. We make good time and arrive at El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino, some 21km along the road .... we consider doing another 13 km to the next town .... but hey its not a race. Settle in, lunch,washing, snooze, diner and that's another day.
Weather a bit better today, as we set out, yes its still quite cool but only scattered cloud and sun about .... expecting a top of about 18C later in the day. Not the most interesting of walks today as much of it will be near or beside the A-66, we are never more than 500m from it, the land is flat with no trees ..... the sound travels a long way here. There are no towns along the way , well on our path anyway. We make good time and arrive at El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino, some 21km along the road .... we consider doing another 13 km to the next town .... but hey its not a race. Settle in, lunch,washing, snooze, diner and that's another day.
Monday, 20 May 2013
Monday, 20th of May 2013 - day 90
We set out in cold, gloomy weather, rain holding off for now. The track is well marked and in good condition .... a broad gravel country road. The country is flat and green, no trees. After a couple of hours we walk into Castellanos de Villiquera, a coffee is in order .... we find a cafe and get take aways, we sit in the town plaza, its still quite cool, but luckily the rain is holding off. We put our packs on and head off north again .... I wish there were some trees!
Another hour and a half and we are at our destination Calzadz de Valdunciel, a small town, but it does have a bed for the night for us.
We set out in cold, gloomy weather, rain holding off for now. The track is well marked and in good condition .... a broad gravel country road. The country is flat and green, no trees. After a couple of hours we walk into Castellanos de Villiquera, a coffee is in order .... we find a cafe and get take aways, we sit in the town plaza, its still quite cool, but luckily the rain is holding off. We put our packs on and head off north again .... I wish there were some trees!
Another hour and a half and we are at our destination Calzadz de Valdunciel, a small town, but it does have a bed for the night for us.
Sunday, 19 May 2013
Sunday, 19th of May 2013 - day 89
Here we are in Salamanca, it should be warm to hot and clear skies ...... but its not. We had a top of 12C today, a couple of showers, a bit of sun, but mainly overcast. I had mentioned in earlier posts that the weather was picking up and by Wednesday it would be back up around 30C ...... that has been revised and with luck it is expected to be may be 20-21C and sunny, then back to more of what we currently have.
We were in no hurry to get out and about, apart from a late night, its too cold to think about it. We eventually head out and do the normal touristy stuff, churches, convents, plazas, gardens, parks. Its Sunday so a lot of things are closed. All the outdoor eateries are in doors ... even with the gas heaters its not very comfortable. Our mood is affected by the weather, we are sombre and quiet for the most part. A bight to eat and a vino or two pick us up, we come across some fellow pilgrims and chat a bit .... it appears the weather has them feeling a bit low as well.
We spend the rest of the day sitting, eating, chatting and then home and think about how far we walk tomorrow.
Here we are in Salamanca, it should be warm to hot and clear skies ...... but its not. We had a top of 12C today, a couple of showers, a bit of sun, but mainly overcast. I had mentioned in earlier posts that the weather was picking up and by Wednesday it would be back up around 30C ...... that has been revised and with luck it is expected to be may be 20-21C and sunny, then back to more of what we currently have.
We were in no hurry to get out and about, apart from a late night, its too cold to think about it. We eventually head out and do the normal touristy stuff, churches, convents, plazas, gardens, parks. Its Sunday so a lot of things are closed. All the outdoor eateries are in doors ... even with the gas heaters its not very comfortable. Our mood is affected by the weather, we are sombre and quiet for the most part. A bight to eat and a vino or two pick us up, we come across some fellow pilgrims and chat a bit .... it appears the weather has them feeling a bit low as well.
We spend the rest of the day sitting, eating, chatting and then home and think about how far we walk tomorrow.
Saturday, 18 May 2013
Saturday, 18th of May 2013 - day 88
Surprise, surprise ....... its cold, wet and windy ..... lingering over a hot chocolate we eventually wander out into the cool of the morning, there is a temperature gauge outside the Farmacia .... it says it 4C at the moment, we believe it as within minutes of being outside we feel childed to the bone. Well nothing for it but set a cracking pace and warm up. We know its not going to rise above 13C today and that will be late afternoon. Its dry at the moment and the road is in good nick, no mud, brilliant.
Under an hours walking we enter Morille, think about a coffee but nothing seems open, the odd barking dog here and there, but that is it. We keep on trekking, the country is dead flat now and we are making good time, not a tree in sight, its some what misty and we can only see about 100m ahead at the best. The wind has dropped and is now just a cold draught about the legs.and face, I have my thermal gloves on and a beany pulled down over my ears as they were cold.
We walk all the way into the river at Salamanca through parks and green belt, then its up onto the main raid to cross Rio Tormes and enter old Salamanca, we pass the old fortifications for the city and find a bar to warm up in. Its a bit after 1pm and we have travelled some 24km this morning to get here.
Lunch is a thick lamb and vegetable soup with a big loaf of crusty bread ...... a meal all on its own. We fill up and warm up, hydronic heating and the heater is beside us .... fantastic.
We consume a couple of bottles between us of what tasted to me like a Merlot.
Then off to find our digs for the next 2 nights, a bit more up market 2 bedroom apartment on the edge of the old part, a bit dearer but very comfortable and warm, we can cook if we want .... no meals out are very affordable and hearty.
Here we are in a major town on Saturday night again, well organised. We hunt out some where nice for diner with a guy playing guitar in a corner, later he is joined by some one with a violin and then numerous people get up and play and sing. Like back home "play for your pots" well here its wine or brandy it seems. Well a very good night and we have just gotten home and its about 1.30am and heading to 2am. We are all still wide awake, so get down to answering emails etc.
Surprise, surprise ....... its cold, wet and windy ..... lingering over a hot chocolate we eventually wander out into the cool of the morning, there is a temperature gauge outside the Farmacia .... it says it 4C at the moment, we believe it as within minutes of being outside we feel childed to the bone. Well nothing for it but set a cracking pace and warm up. We know its not going to rise above 13C today and that will be late afternoon. Its dry at the moment and the road is in good nick, no mud, brilliant.
Under an hours walking we enter Morille, think about a coffee but nothing seems open, the odd barking dog here and there, but that is it. We keep on trekking, the country is dead flat now and we are making good time, not a tree in sight, its some what misty and we can only see about 100m ahead at the best. The wind has dropped and is now just a cold draught about the legs.and face, I have my thermal gloves on and a beany pulled down over my ears as they were cold.
We walk all the way into the river at Salamanca through parks and green belt, then its up onto the main raid to cross Rio Tormes and enter old Salamanca, we pass the old fortifications for the city and find a bar to warm up in. Its a bit after 1pm and we have travelled some 24km this morning to get here.
Lunch is a thick lamb and vegetable soup with a big loaf of crusty bread ...... a meal all on its own. We fill up and warm up, hydronic heating and the heater is beside us .... fantastic.
We consume a couple of bottles between us of what tasted to me like a Merlot.
Then off to find our digs for the next 2 nights, a bit more up market 2 bedroom apartment on the edge of the old part, a bit dearer but very comfortable and warm, we can cook if we want .... no meals out are very affordable and hearty.
Here we are in a major town on Saturday night again, well organised. We hunt out some where nice for diner with a guy playing guitar in a corner, later he is joined by some one with a violin and then numerous people get up and play and sing. Like back home "play for your pots" well here its wine or brandy it seems. Well a very good night and we have just gotten home and its about 1.30am and heading to 2am. We are all still wide awake, so get down to answering emails etc.
Friday, 17 May 2013
Friday, 17th of May 2013 - day87
Well guess what its freezing again, we start out early - ish, its about 6-7C with a chilling breeze. Some 28km to next town, being San Pedro de Rozados, the country is flatish,scrubby and in quite a lot of places soft under foot (muddy), there is a lot of surface water laying about, some times easier to walk off the track. Almost 3 hours into walking we come to a sign, suggesting we have an alternate path, its not official, its yellow paint on boards and panelling, with scallop shell stencilled motifs ...... I think, I've seen this before, some enterprising bar owner trying to detour pilgrims to, or past his door. Some times these just take you nowhere and you have to back track. GPS shows us nothing, indicate no track, WiFi with tablet, no signal.
We stick to the main track as the alternate is unmade and muddy, main track is in reasonable condition here. We trudge on, rain coming and going, wind gusty, misty at times. We are cold and bedraggled by the time we arrive at San Pedro de Rozados, its about 3pm and we are over it.
Fist thing is to check in and clean and warm up as its only 12-13C outside and the chill factor makes it feel like about 8-10C. A hot shower, wash and dry clothes, then off to the bar, its about 6pm, we want warming drinks, bar tender suggests hot port with brandy, sounds good to us. A monster glass of hot port with a slug of brandy arrives, yum ...... heady but very warming. With only eating energy bars, bananas and apples during the walk .... well lets say we are all acting on the silly side quite quickly.
The host suggests some tapas .... local delites, we don't ask as we may not like the answer to what we are eating, it is yummy and filling, a bottle of red, one of the heavy ones (a bit like a Durif). Host then brings out a big bowl of what I think is a Sheppard's Pie or something ..... it turns out to be a steak and kidney with dumplings ..... double yum. The host tries to force sweets on us, but no room.
We roll back to our accom through the cold, wet and freezing streets, once there its warm and comfortable, so a coffee and emails and blog, then.
Looking forward to putting my head down on the pillow.
Well guess what its freezing again, we start out early - ish, its about 6-7C with a chilling breeze. Some 28km to next town, being San Pedro de Rozados, the country is flatish,scrubby and in quite a lot of places soft under foot (muddy), there is a lot of surface water laying about, some times easier to walk off the track. Almost 3 hours into walking we come to a sign, suggesting we have an alternate path, its not official, its yellow paint on boards and panelling, with scallop shell stencilled motifs ...... I think, I've seen this before, some enterprising bar owner trying to detour pilgrims to, or past his door. Some times these just take you nowhere and you have to back track. GPS shows us nothing, indicate no track, WiFi with tablet, no signal.
We stick to the main track as the alternate is unmade and muddy, main track is in reasonable condition here. We trudge on, rain coming and going, wind gusty, misty at times. We are cold and bedraggled by the time we arrive at San Pedro de Rozados, its about 3pm and we are over it.
Fist thing is to check in and clean and warm up as its only 12-13C outside and the chill factor makes it feel like about 8-10C. A hot shower, wash and dry clothes, then off to the bar, its about 6pm, we want warming drinks, bar tender suggests hot port with brandy, sounds good to us. A monster glass of hot port with a slug of brandy arrives, yum ...... heady but very warming. With only eating energy bars, bananas and apples during the walk .... well lets say we are all acting on the silly side quite quickly.
The host suggests some tapas .... local delites, we don't ask as we may not like the answer to what we are eating, it is yummy and filling, a bottle of red, one of the heavy ones (a bit like a Durif). Host then brings out a big bowl of what I think is a Sheppard's Pie or something ..... it turns out to be a steak and kidney with dumplings ..... double yum. The host tries to force sweets on us, but no room.
We roll back to our accom through the cold, wet and freezing streets, once there its warm and comfortable, so a coffee and emails and blog, then.
Looking forward to putting my head down on the pillow.
Thursday, 16 May 2013
Thursday, 16th of May 2013 - day 86
Well what can I say, its cold, overcast and threatening rain .... the wind, though cold a gusty, comes and goes. We head out begrudgingly after hot coffees and a hearty breakfast .... its after 8am, a late start for us, but we linger by the fire to warm up as much as possible. The path is gravel, better than dirt and in reasonable condition, our path is fairly flat and we make good time.
Valverde de Valdelacasa .... about 9km down the road takes about 2 hours. More hot drinks and away again, its another 11-12km to our destination along the path, gravel/mud as farmers use this road and the tractors, live stock leave there mark. So its a bit " tiptoe through the tulips" at times, then there's the fiord's, no its just low lying ground that water has filled. we are lucky when its only a few inches, but the ground underneath is soggy and you sink in a bit. This is where the walking sticks come into there own, giving balance and stability. Some have stepping stones, but these can be treacherous, so much care must be taken.
So its about 1pm as we enter Fuenterrolle de Salvatierra.
Number one is to find a bar/cafe/restaurant ..... when we do its warm inviting and cosy. Lunch out of the way its find our accommodation, basic ... yes but warm. The further north we go the towns are more like along the Camino Francis, bare stone, not rendered, well the old ones and there are a lot of them.
Diner is over and its time to go to bed the heating has gone off it appears and its cooling down, so bed beckons.
Well what can I say, its cold, overcast and threatening rain .... the wind, though cold a gusty, comes and goes. We head out begrudgingly after hot coffees and a hearty breakfast .... its after 8am, a late start for us, but we linger by the fire to warm up as much as possible. The path is gravel, better than dirt and in reasonable condition, our path is fairly flat and we make good time.
Valverde de Valdelacasa .... about 9km down the road takes about 2 hours. More hot drinks and away again, its another 11-12km to our destination along the path, gravel/mud as farmers use this road and the tractors, live stock leave there mark. So its a bit " tiptoe through the tulips" at times, then there's the fiord's, no its just low lying ground that water has filled. we are lucky when its only a few inches, but the ground underneath is soggy and you sink in a bit. This is where the walking sticks come into there own, giving balance and stability. Some have stepping stones, but these can be treacherous, so much care must be taken.
So its about 1pm as we enter Fuenterrolle de Salvatierra.
Number one is to find a bar/cafe/restaurant ..... when we do its warm inviting and cosy. Lunch out of the way its find our accommodation, basic ... yes but warm. The further north we go the towns are more like along the Camino Francis, bare stone, not rendered, well the old ones and there are a lot of them.
Diner is over and its time to go to bed the heating has gone off it appears and its cooling down, so bed beckons.
Wednesday, 15 May 2013
Wednesday, 15th of May 2013 - day 85
Its cold this morning, initially there are showers, lots of towns to pass through today. The first being Banos de Montemayor its about 10km down the road and takes us a bit over 2 hours ...... coffee break and warm up. Puerto de Bejar some 3km and 45minutes further .... there are more showers, but we trudge on ..... another 2 hours and we are in La Cazada de Bejar. Most of the walk we have seen remnants of the Roman occupation, with ruins and road markers, though haven't lingered as not the most comfortable days walking. We dry out and warm up over lunch, there is a fire burning and it is cosy. Off to the Albergue and settle in ... everything needs washing and drying, including us.
Its cold this morning, initially there are showers, lots of towns to pass through today. The first being Banos de Montemayor its about 10km down the road and takes us a bit over 2 hours ...... coffee break and warm up. Puerto de Bejar some 3km and 45minutes further .... there are more showers, but we trudge on ..... another 2 hours and we are in La Cazada de Bejar. Most of the walk we have seen remnants of the Roman occupation, with ruins and road markers, though haven't lingered as not the most comfortable days walking. We dry out and warm up over lunch, there is a fire burning and it is cosy. Off to the Albergue and settle in ... everything needs washing and drying, including us.
Tuesday, 14 May 2013
Tuesday, 14th of May 2013 - day 84
Big day today, its a cold and wet start, track is ok for the most part .... but lots of areas that have water laying across it .... made a point of wearing the gaiters today. Its about 38km to Aldeanueva del Camino, no towns along the way so we are carrying all provisions.
About halfway there we come across a bar/tavern/cafe out in the middle of now where at a cross roads. Its about lunch time or close enough, its warm inside away from the wind. We have coffee and some chilly con carne with bread and avocado ..... then on our way as its still 4-5 hours of walking.
It becomes muggy as the afternoon progresses, with warmer conditions and the odd shower every now and again. We keep up a steady pace and arrive 5-5.30pm, check in and clean up. Wash and dry clothes then diner and its time for bed. We are all bushed.
Big day today, its a cold and wet start, track is ok for the most part .... but lots of areas that have water laying across it .... made a point of wearing the gaiters today. Its about 38km to Aldeanueva del Camino, no towns along the way so we are carrying all provisions.
About halfway there we come across a bar/tavern/cafe out in the middle of now where at a cross roads. Its about lunch time or close enough, its warm inside away from the wind. We have coffee and some chilly con carne with bread and avocado ..... then on our way as its still 4-5 hours of walking.
It becomes muggy as the afternoon progresses, with warmer conditions and the odd shower every now and again. We keep up a steady pace and arrive 5-5.30pm, check in and clean up. Wash and dry clothes then diner and its time for bed. We are all bushed.
Monday, 13 May 2013
Monday, 13th of May 2013 - day 83
Back to overcast with the odd patch of sun, not far to walk though, 11-12km to Carcaboso ... we have the occasional shower, so wet weather gear on and off as its muggy today.
No point trying to walk further as its some 38km to the next overnight stop and its looking like rain/showers and cooler weather for the next few days. Make Carcaboso 11.30 ish, have a coffee and a wander around .... feel like keeping on walking, but no too far to next stop. 38km tomorrow and possibly in the rain, and mud, yuk.
A light lunch and a bottle of white wine today, check in to Albergue, clean up, go for a wander then an early diner and to bed, big day tomorrow ..... 8-10 hours of walking and all provisions have to be carried.
Back to overcast with the odd patch of sun, not far to walk though, 11-12km to Carcaboso ... we have the occasional shower, so wet weather gear on and off as its muggy today.
No point trying to walk further as its some 38km to the next overnight stop and its looking like rain/showers and cooler weather for the next few days. Make Carcaboso 11.30 ish, have a coffee and a wander around .... feel like keeping on walking, but no too far to next stop. 38km tomorrow and possibly in the rain, and mud, yuk.
A light lunch and a bottle of white wine today, check in to Albergue, clean up, go for a wander then an early diner and to bed, big day tomorrow ..... 8-10 hours of walking and all provisions have to be carried.
Sunday, 12 May 2013
Sunday, 12th of may 2013 - day 82
We leave Canaveral bright and early, some 27-28km to cover today. Its all on country lanes or dedicated camino track ..... rough, dusty and no or little protection from the sun or wind.
Its another of those high 20's low 30's days with a lot of walking and no towns on the path ... so all provisions have to be carried. well it took us almost 6 and a 1/2 hours to get to Galisteo, not hard walking as its mostly flat and some of it followed a canal getting near to Galisteo .... was tempted to go for a swim as at this stage it was hot, tempted as I was the water was freezing. As we get closer we see that our destination is a walled city, on a hill .... we venture through the gates and enter, its a mix of old and new. Finding a bar not far from the entrance we sit and order some beers, not overly hungry we have a mixed platter of tapas which we share.
Then its off to our albergue, by the time we get there its all booked out so are told of either the hotel or a guesthouse not far away. We choose the guesthouse, it lovely and has a beautiful walled garden. we clean up, wash and dry clothes and relax in the shade of the garden. We are offered to eat in with there family which we enthusiastically agree. We have a huge rib eye roast, yum with vegies and all the trimmings. We drink there home made red wine and have a great time. The sky has clouded and they say its going to get cooler over the next week with some rain.
Well will see what tomorrow brings.
We leave Canaveral bright and early, some 27-28km to cover today. Its all on country lanes or dedicated camino track ..... rough, dusty and no or little protection from the sun or wind.
Its another of those high 20's low 30's days with a lot of walking and no towns on the path ... so all provisions have to be carried. well it took us almost 6 and a 1/2 hours to get to Galisteo, not hard walking as its mostly flat and some of it followed a canal getting near to Galisteo .... was tempted to go for a swim as at this stage it was hot, tempted as I was the water was freezing. As we get closer we see that our destination is a walled city, on a hill .... we venture through the gates and enter, its a mix of old and new. Finding a bar not far from the entrance we sit and order some beers, not overly hungry we have a mixed platter of tapas which we share.
Then its off to our albergue, by the time we get there its all booked out so are told of either the hotel or a guesthouse not far away. We choose the guesthouse, it lovely and has a beautiful walled garden. we clean up, wash and dry clothes and relax in the shade of the garden. We are offered to eat in with there family which we enthusiastically agree. We have a huge rib eye roast, yum with vegies and all the trimmings. We drink there home made red wine and have a great time. The sky has clouded and they say its going to get cooler over the next week with some rain.
Well will see what tomorrow brings.
Saturday, 11 May 2013
Saturday, 11th of May 2013 - day 81
After a coolish night it is again clear blue skies and I suspect up around 30C again.We are in no great rush as its a mere 12km to Canaveral our next stop.As we have become used to there is no shade or protection from the weather on the path .... which is a mix of dedicated Camino path and rough farm/country roads. we arrive a bit after 11pm and get a feel for the town, get a coffee and then check out somewhere for lunch and check where our accom is to be. Like all the Villages its on the Hill, narrow, twisting lanes that go in all directions. Find a pleasant enough bar for lunch as its getting rather warm outside ..... then book in to accom and clean up wash cloths and dry them, which does not take long, then grab a short siesta. As we are heading out for diner, our host suggests a restaurant a few hundred metres away, with town map in hand we negotiate the lanes and come out on a broad road and there is the restaurant. We find our host has phoned ahead and they are expecting us.They suggest a fixed priced chefs menu which is very reasonable and includes local wine.
We are impressed and the food just keeps coming, luckily most of it is light and not over filling. Not a rowdy night but very pleasant. As we head back to our rooms we feel the chill of the night, the sky is full of stars and the air is fresh and clean. It takes us a bit longer to get back as we miss a lane and well it adds another 100m or so.
After a coolish night it is again clear blue skies and I suspect up around 30C again.We are in no great rush as its a mere 12km to Canaveral our next stop.As we have become used to there is no shade or protection from the weather on the path .... which is a mix of dedicated Camino path and rough farm/country roads. we arrive a bit after 11pm and get a feel for the town, get a coffee and then check out somewhere for lunch and check where our accom is to be. Like all the Villages its on the Hill, narrow, twisting lanes that go in all directions. Find a pleasant enough bar for lunch as its getting rather warm outside ..... then book in to accom and clean up wash cloths and dry them, which does not take long, then grab a short siesta. As we are heading out for diner, our host suggests a restaurant a few hundred metres away, with town map in hand we negotiate the lanes and come out on a broad road and there is the restaurant. We find our host has phoned ahead and they are expecting us.They suggest a fixed priced chefs menu which is very reasonable and includes local wine.
We are impressed and the food just keeps coming, luckily most of it is light and not over filling. Not a rowdy night but very pleasant. As we head back to our rooms we feel the chill of the night, the sky is full of stars and the air is fresh and clean. It takes us a bit longer to get back as we miss a lane and well it adds another 100m or so.
Friday, 10 May 2013
Friday, 10th of May 2013 - day 80
Another bright and sunny day, low 30's expected, so up and out at first light. It a dusty track for the most part and we make Albergue del Embalse de Alcantara by about 1pm .... we covered about 22-23km to this beautiful spot on the banks of a huge lake/reservoir/dam. We have a picnic lunch overlooking the lake, wash and clean up and rest as its hot with little to no shade. We cook a simple diner of pasta with a tomato based vegetarian sauce and cheese ... with a bottle of red, we watch the sunset over the lake and then hit the hay.
Tomorrow we cover 11-12km to Canaveral.
Another bright and sunny day, low 30's expected, so up and out at first light. It a dusty track for the most part and we make Albergue del Embalse de Alcantara by about 1pm .... we covered about 22-23km to this beautiful spot on the banks of a huge lake/reservoir/dam. We have a picnic lunch overlooking the lake, wash and clean up and rest as its hot with little to no shade. We cook a simple diner of pasta with a tomato based vegetarian sauce and cheese ... with a bottle of red, we watch the sunset over the lake and then hit the hay.
Tomorrow we cover 11-12km to Canaveral.
Thursday, 9 May 2013
Thursday, 9th of May 2013 - day 79
Up early, its a bright sunny day, energy finally coming back. With breakfast and coffee settling we are off and walking. The country is pretty well treeless, gently undulating and warm going. Its going to be quite hot today, up around the high 20's - low 30's. It takes about 3 hours to get to Casar de Caceres, which is where we will stay as its quite a distance to the next accommodation place. we covered about 12 km today, enough for me, as I am feeling a bit worn by the time we sit and enjoy a pre-lunch beer. There is a tree lined lake in the town and we buy some goodies from the shop and have a picnic on the shore, picnic tables abound. Its pleasant, shaded and we relax and enjoy. The shop is but 30m away for cool drinks etc. Then off to book in and clean up and wash the dust off, everything dries in no time as its very warm now. Back to the lake and a bit of a siesta in the shade ..... diner and an early night.
Up early, its a bright sunny day, energy finally coming back. With breakfast and coffee settling we are off and walking. The country is pretty well treeless, gently undulating and warm going. Its going to be quite hot today, up around the high 20's - low 30's. It takes about 3 hours to get to Casar de Caceres, which is where we will stay as its quite a distance to the next accommodation place. we covered about 12 km today, enough for me, as I am feeling a bit worn by the time we sit and enjoy a pre-lunch beer. There is a tree lined lake in the town and we buy some goodies from the shop and have a picnic on the shore, picnic tables abound. Its pleasant, shaded and we relax and enjoy. The shop is but 30m away for cool drinks etc. Then off to book in and clean up and wash the dust off, everything dries in no time as its very warm now. Back to the lake and a bit of a siesta in the shade ..... diner and an early night.
Wednesday, 8 May 2013
Tuesday, 7 May 2013
Tuesday, 7th of May 2013 - day 77
Had to drag myself out of bed this morning, feeling low ...... trudged on to Caceres only 11km but enough for me. Went to see a doctor, he suggested more than likely some contaminated water and maybe a parasite, some pathology and with luck maybe will know tomorrow. I suggested to the others that they may want to continue on ...... but they said they will wait for a few days.
Got a call late in the day to say it was a parasite and drop in for a script. Got it filled and hoping for results. Guess this tells me to stick to bottled water, even in restaurants or may be stick to beer or wine.
Had to drag myself out of bed this morning, feeling low ...... trudged on to Caceres only 11km but enough for me. Went to see a doctor, he suggested more than likely some contaminated water and maybe a parasite, some pathology and with luck maybe will know tomorrow. I suggested to the others that they may want to continue on ...... but they said they will wait for a few days.
Got a call late in the day to say it was a parasite and drop in for a script. Got it filled and hoping for results. Guess this tells me to stick to bottled water, even in restaurants or may be stick to beer or wine.
Sunday, 5 May 2013
Sunday 5th of May 2013 - day 75
Awake at first light, feel dry and washed out but OK. Lots of water and some energy drink and we head out. Its all country roads and tracks through the country side .... easy pleasant walking, the weather is back to sunny and low to mid 20's. After a few hours My energy levels are low and I'm into the chocolate bars for a sugar fix .... we make it to Alcuescar 12.30 or there abouts and I am feeling bushed. I'm hesitant about what to eat, my normally cast iron gut is feel a bit tender, I stick to light foods, some grilled fish and a salad and a bottle of coke .... great for a quick sugar fix. After lunch we find our accom and I have a siesta for about 4 - 5 hours. I awake to find the others have done my washing for me and its dry and neatly folded.
Diner and well I'm up to now .... feeling a lot better but still tired.
Awake at first light, feel dry and washed out but OK. Lots of water and some energy drink and we head out. Its all country roads and tracks through the country side .... easy pleasant walking, the weather is back to sunny and low to mid 20's. After a few hours My energy levels are low and I'm into the chocolate bars for a sugar fix .... we make it to Alcuescar 12.30 or there abouts and I am feeling bushed. I'm hesitant about what to eat, my normally cast iron gut is feel a bit tender, I stick to light foods, some grilled fish and a salad and a bottle of coke .... great for a quick sugar fix. After lunch we find our accom and I have a siesta for about 4 - 5 hours. I awake to find the others have done my washing for me and its dry and neatly folded.
Diner and well I'm up to now .... feeling a lot better but still tired.
Saturday 4th of May 2013 - day 74
Apologies, as catching up due to being a bit under the weather, stomach bug or something.
Decided to hit the road, first 6km to Proserpina we walked along the side of the road on a green walking/bicycle track with a huge concrete barrier between us and the cars, great walking. Its low rolling hills, farm land with crops all green and lush.As we come over a hill we see this large lake ahead - Embaise de Proserpina. We grab a coffee here then keep walking and for the next hour we walk a narrow paved road with little room for us to avoid the traffic, luckily we only see 2 cars.then onto a dirt track for the rest of the way. We pass through a small town called El Carrasclejo, its neat and tidy and white, every thing is painted white. Another couple of km and we are in Aljucen, our stop for the night as its another 20km to the next Town on the Camino.We have lunch clean up then I get sick, no diner for me all I want to do is stay put and close to the conveniences.
Apologies, as catching up due to being a bit under the weather, stomach bug or something.
Decided to hit the road, first 6km to Proserpina we walked along the side of the road on a green walking/bicycle track with a huge concrete barrier between us and the cars, great walking. Its low rolling hills, farm land with crops all green and lush.As we come over a hill we see this large lake ahead - Embaise de Proserpina. We grab a coffee here then keep walking and for the next hour we walk a narrow paved road with little room for us to avoid the traffic, luckily we only see 2 cars.then onto a dirt track for the rest of the way. We pass through a small town called El Carrasclejo, its neat and tidy and white, every thing is painted white. Another couple of km and we are in Aljucen, our stop for the night as its another 20km to the next Town on the Camino.We have lunch clean up then I get sick, no diner for me all I want to do is stay put and close to the conveniences.
Friday, 3 May 2013
Friday, 3rd of May 2013 - day 73
Have been wandering around this lovely city, the weather is sunny and a very comfortable 23C.
Met up with some fellow pilgrims and had an extended lunch with way to much vino. Had a big siesta late arvo then off to diner and and only a glass or two with my meal.
Not sure whether we will hit the road or stay another day? Will discuss that over breakfast in the light of day.
Have been wandering around this lovely city, the weather is sunny and a very comfortable 23C.
Met up with some fellow pilgrims and had an extended lunch with way to much vino. Had a big siesta late arvo then off to diner and and only a glass or two with my meal.
Not sure whether we will hit the road or stay another day? Will discuss that over breakfast in the light of day.
Thursday, 2 May 2013
Thursday, 2nd of May 2013 - day 72
Another cool overcast morning, we rug up and start walking .... not a huge distance today, about 16-17km to Merida. half our walk today was adjacent to the main road ..... you don't always see it, but the noise is there, that can be annoying. After about 1 1/2 hours we veer away from the noise and wonder along a track beside a minor country road, little traffic, its flat going ... we make the outskirts of Merida after about 3 1/2 hours. cross the Rio Guadiana and enter Merida .... this is a large - ish rural town/city ... Roman ruins abound. We book into one of the local hotels for several nights as there is lots to see here. Clean up and head out for lunch, its almost warm with the temp up around 19-20C with the sun popping out occasionally ..... better weather on the way. We have a Yum Cha lunch in a Chinese restaurant that we stumble upon ..... then do the sights after some shopping for the basics (toiletry stuff mainly) ..... then onto the ruins of the "Anfiteatro" and its environs, its actually in pretty good nick considering its age. This takes the rest of the afternoon and early evening, as there is lots to see. We have diner and then back to our rooms, its around midnight again and feeling a tad tired.
Another cool overcast morning, we rug up and start walking .... not a huge distance today, about 16-17km to Merida. half our walk today was adjacent to the main road ..... you don't always see it, but the noise is there, that can be annoying. After about 1 1/2 hours we veer away from the noise and wonder along a track beside a minor country road, little traffic, its flat going ... we make the outskirts of Merida after about 3 1/2 hours. cross the Rio Guadiana and enter Merida .... this is a large - ish rural town/city ... Roman ruins abound. We book into one of the local hotels for several nights as there is lots to see here. Clean up and head out for lunch, its almost warm with the temp up around 19-20C with the sun popping out occasionally ..... better weather on the way. We have a Yum Cha lunch in a Chinese restaurant that we stumble upon ..... then do the sights after some shopping for the basics (toiletry stuff mainly) ..... then onto the ruins of the "Anfiteatro" and its environs, its actually in pretty good nick considering its age. This takes the rest of the afternoon and early evening, as there is lots to see. We have diner and then back to our rooms, its around midnight again and feeling a tad tired.
Wednesday, 1 May 2013
Wednesday, 1st of May 2013 - day 71
Its cool and overcast as we set of this morning, hopefully the rain has gone ..... at least its not windy. The path takes us again through farm land, it is relatively flat, though a touch muddy in places. We make Almendralejo after about 3 hours walking and stop for a break and a snack, its still quite cool at about 9-10C. After a warming hot chocolate we hit the trail again unfortunately the track follows a road which also follows a major toll road, so even though we cant see it we can hear it .... after an hour and a half of this we veer away from the other roads and head off up a country track .... quiet again and then an hour or so later we reach Torremejia, we have covered some 27km and a bit.We find a bar and have lunch, no sitting outside as its still very cool. No fire place but its warm and dry and the food is filling, some sort of local sausage with smashed potatoes and a tasty gravy/sauce. A bottle of a sweetish red then find our digs for the night and clean up ... boots need a good clean and wax, wore the gaiters today due to the potential of mud. Of around town to check out the sites, its still very cool.
An early-ish diner for these parts ... a monster steak (whole ribeye rack) with bowls of boiled spuds, minted carrots and mixed greens (the meals are huge), that's why we share, this fed the four of us and its a meal for one???? A yummy red to wash it down with then a short walk to before going back to the guesthouse we are staying in, a bit more comfortable than the Aubergue and quieter.
Its cool and overcast as we set of this morning, hopefully the rain has gone ..... at least its not windy. The path takes us again through farm land, it is relatively flat, though a touch muddy in places. We make Almendralejo after about 3 hours walking and stop for a break and a snack, its still quite cool at about 9-10C. After a warming hot chocolate we hit the trail again unfortunately the track follows a road which also follows a major toll road, so even though we cant see it we can hear it .... after an hour and a half of this we veer away from the other roads and head off up a country track .... quiet again and then an hour or so later we reach Torremejia, we have covered some 27km and a bit.We find a bar and have lunch, no sitting outside as its still very cool. No fire place but its warm and dry and the food is filling, some sort of local sausage with smashed potatoes and a tasty gravy/sauce. A bottle of a sweetish red then find our digs for the night and clean up ... boots need a good clean and wax, wore the gaiters today due to the potential of mud. Of around town to check out the sites, its still very cool.
An early-ish diner for these parts ... a monster steak (whole ribeye rack) with bowls of boiled spuds, minted carrots and mixed greens (the meals are huge), that's why we share, this fed the four of us and its a meal for one???? A yummy red to wash it down with then a short walk to before going back to the guesthouse we are staying in, a bit more comfortable than the Aubergue and quieter.
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