Sunday, 30 June 2013

Sunday, 30th of June 2013.
Only a short walk into Santiago this morning, arrived about 10am - ish. I got a big surprise as I walked in, there was Liz, Bill and Anne sitting eating breakfast at a cafe, they were looking out for me and called me over. A coffee and hugs all around, then I stowed my stuff at there accom and we went off for lunch and later diner. They leave for home in the morning so a very timely arrival by me. After leaving Santiago they had walked to Ferrol and A Coruna and then back down the coast and across back to Santiago about 240km. Will decide what route I take tomorrow.

Saturday, 29 June 2013

Saturday 29th of June 2013.
Playing catch up today .... computer glitch, yesterday.
Friday morning, cool, bright, sunny .... only a short distance today, so enjoy breakfast and a coffee in the sun. Pack on back and off ..... on my Jacks Malone and relaxed. Hardly have time to get a stride up and walking through the next town, Prado .... its small spread out residential town. An hour and a half through picturesque country side and enter Silleda, a typical modern rural town easy commute to Santiago. An hour and a half later find myself in Bandeira, very rural, just the hotel, and the train line.
Well I check in and relax, its hot outside, up around the 30's ... very few guests, one other pilgrim couple arrive later .... we are getting close to Santiago, so maybe people are pushing on?
Saturday, breakfast consumed its back on the trail, 5km to Dornelas, then another 5km to San Miguel de Castro, over the Rio Ulla and through Ponte Ulla, Outeiro (had thought about staying here, but decided to go the extra 7km) and on to Susana ... some 23-24km for the day.
Its hot 30C by early afternoon, find a place for lunch and digs for the night. Less than 10km to Santiago now.

Thursday, 27 June 2013

Thursday, 27th of June 2013.
Luxury, its a crisp bright sunny morning in the Southern Galacian Hills, A hearty Spanish breakfast and I waddle off into the distance leaving that imposing Monastry in the back ground.
Again towns every few km, most seem almost deserted, but washing hanging on the lines and the odd dog or cat show life. This is truly a magical place, green, trees, moss, lots of texture in the flora ..... the stone buildings are looked after, gardens are neat and tidy. The km's slip past almost un-noticed, I have a break in Castro-Dozon, 10-11km into the day, though its still quite early, a bit after 10am ..... a beer and a pastry thing that was on the bar, don't know what it was called, but that was my sugar hit for the week. With energy oozing out of me I was off again, over hill down into valley, again and again. Arrive at A Laxe about 1.30 ish, about having covered about 28km. Lunch is enjoyable .... here I run into some pilgrims from earlier on in the walk, no I can't remember there names, they can't remember mine either, so I feel better. They have had lots of rest days and short days. We check into the Albergue clean, wash and dry tmy meagre belongings and back to the bar, en-mass. A rowdy joyful evening is had by all, then back to dormitory, snuffles, snorts, burps, growns and other unsavoury noises, zipping and rustling of sleeping bags ...... ah dormitory bliss ...... then sleep ..... thanks to ear plugs and just a little vino.

Wednesday, 26 June 2013

Wednesday 26th of June 2013.
Another lovely day, up early and off on my trek .... solo today as Pam had other plans.
So it was down through the town to the river, over and up the other side ... a decent climb out of the valley ..... then relatively flat is, but a steady 400m climb for the rest of the day over some 26-27km.
Yes today I am planning on a 31km day ..... its actually easy walking and get up a good stride.
There are quite a few small towns along the way to Cea .... my original destination. At Cea a coffee and bread roll with smoked meats and pickles ..... then press on .... I have a determination and a steady pace, arriving in Oseira by 2pm. The Abbey/Monastry is is very imposing, medieval, fortress like and dominates the beautiful smal town .... the albergue is barn like, loads of atmosphere .... I had booked into a near by B+B, cosy, comfortable and quiet.
Some lunch a beer then the accom and a clean up ..... then reflection on events that saw me solo again.
Diner at one of the bars and a quiet night then rest.

Tuesday, 25 June 2013

Tuesday, 25th of June 2013.
R+R day in Orense, sight seeing, lunch, sight seeing, siesta, diner, bed then up early in the morning as some 21km to next stop.

Monday, 24 June 2013

Monday, 24th of June 2013.
Another brilliant day, coolish early, but heading to mid 20's. A bit over 21km to walk today so an early start .... walking through farm lands and green pasture lands, its well treed and gentle down hill nearly all day. There are towns every 2-3.5km, A Pousa is the first just under an hour into the walk, then Salguairos just a half hour along, then Ousende another 45 minutes , Pereiras and then Castelana where we stop for coffee and snacks .... we have been on the road for almost 4 hours, we have covered about 13.5km ..... its around 11.30am.
Sitting on the side of the road enjoying coffee and roll filled with cold meats and salad, we ponder how lucky we are. Enough banter its time to move on, still another 8-9km to go .... Redoredo, then Seixalbo and we are on the outskirts of Orense and what is a largish city ..... no sooner here than wishing for the serenity of the country side. The tranquillity and green is gone, my brain is struggling again, too much to take in, decisions to make, feel a brain overload.
We stop at a bar and I slowly consume a very large beer, and nibble on a huge plate of mixed tapas .... food, drink, memories of doing this flood back and I am very relaxed, even with the hustle and bustle going on around me. We are at a table on the footpath at a small bar, the sun is shining, there is but a slight breeze ..... there is only the two of us (Pam and I), she reminds me of my sister and is about the same age at 70 or there abouts. So after lunch its of the the Albergue ... by the time we get there its full, so of to the Hostel just down the road ... have to go a bit more upmarket and end up sharing a twin room with en-suite ..... it appears that there is some show or festival or something going on in town? The guy was talking so fast missed what it was, as we are both tired after today's walk decided to have a rest day here (only on the track a few days and having a rest day)?
Clean up, do washing, siesta, then a late leisurely diner and back to room .... room is not big and Pam snores, are well thems the breaks. So huddle  on the balcony and catch up with Blog and emails.

Sunday, 23 June 2013

Sunday, 23rd of June 2013.
Another bright, sunny day, coolish to start with ..... I linger over breakfast and that second coffee.
Its about 14km to my next bed, on yesterdays timeline thats about 5 hours ..... so finally push off about 8.30 -8.45am.
I am walking with Pam and we seem to be plodding along at a comfortable snails pace, the country is relatively flat, low hills, but the track is constantly up or down, there is some 14km to do today.
Towns dot the track at regular intervals and if we are not passing through one we are passing by one .... though there is little life in them. Though just out of Bobadela Pinta beside the road there is a road side peddlar selling coffee and
Tortitas de patata .... he has a captive market ..... Hans and Willy, other pilgrims from last night are there when we arrive. Pam and I have several of each then its on our way again.
Hans and Willy are long gone by the time we depart ... we still have 5-6km to go.
We arrive at Xunqueira de Ambria, just on 2pm and its quite warm and has been a dusty day, as we walk up to the bar Hans and Willy call us over to 2 beers set aside for us .... they are very much appreciated. Only a light lunch as we had the potato pancakes only a few hours ago and they were filling.
Post lunch wash and dry clothes, siesta under a tree in the garden ... a tad tired today, but head clear.
The next 2 days walk is about 21-22km each day from bed to bed and its getting hillier, no turning into mountainous ahead.
Last night at diner sitting with about 10 other pilgrims I heard of a chap that died of a heart attack on the Camino about a fortnight ago in a nearby town .... there were 4 different interpretations on how this guy died, some were unsure of the town, but others said it was Albergueria ..... my ears were already pricked up, but I stayed silent, apart from keeping the conversation going on that track. I know it was me they wre talking about, but kept quiet as it would be embarasing for all of them.
I did pipe in and say I heard he did survive and was doing well ...... no they were adament he died and that there is going to be a memorial stone placed where he died ..... very interesting, I thought.
Though walking with Pam today I did confide in her as her only comments was that she was saddened by it all. I explained to her the events, and asked her not to say anything to the others if we were to share a meal together again.
I had an early diner with a few others and then off to bed ...... reception here dodgy so will send when it improves may be later in the night.

Saturday, 22 June 2013

Saturday, 22nd of June 2013,
I depart Santiago early on a bright and sunny day, heading to the place of my last footstep on the Via de la Plata. I arrive 11.30 ish after some changing of buses ..... I am in Albergueria, I look around and try to remember .... but I have seen lots of towns like this, so unsure if I do or don't.
Forget about that, have a coffee then start walking back to Santiago. Not far out of town I get overtaken by some other walkers .... we chat for a short while, but they walk at far to brisk a pace for me currently .... so bid "Buen Camino" to them. its 7-7.5km to next town along the Camino, its up hill and down dale .... takes me a bit over 2 hours. I arrive at Vilar de Barrio hot and tired, grab a light lunch and a beer, the beer is getting warm by the time I finish it.
Find a bed for the night in the local Albergue, clean up and relax ..... I'm tired but feel good and drift off for a bit of a siesta. A pilgrims meal and some local wine and bed.

Friday, 21 June 2013

Friday 21st of June 2013,
Have the OK from the Doctors to get back to the Camino, memory still a bit fuzzy, but improving.
Kids flew out today on the long haul home. Am out of the rehab place and in a hostel, private en-suited room, nice.
Tomorrow make my way back on the bus to Albergueria, where I collapsed and see if any memories come back or may have to go back to Campobecerros? Will see what comes back, if anything?
Feel a bit apprehensive, like its all new .... stumbling through my Spanish, seem to have enough to be understood and understand them .... when they slow down a bit.
Weather is on the improve, warmer today and almost clear skies. Tomorrow low to mid 20's ... great.

Thursday, 20 June 2013

Thursday, 20th of June 2013,
Spent a good part of yesterday having tests done, lots of waiting around ..... a brain scan, pathology, dexterity, cognigence skills ....... it just went on and on. Was totally exhausted ..... went to bed early and slept through till the morning.
Today, a bit brighter out though still chilly and patchy cloud cover. Had breakfast with my kids and fellow travellers as they proceed on there way today, so it is the last chance to catch up in person till next walking adventure? Lots of discussion on that over breakfast, some ideas floated.
Wished them well, very sad to watch them walk away and not be able to join them.
Well one thing I remember about the Camino, it not hard to make friends or at least fall in with other walking companions.
One more day with my children before they fly home, get an update on my tests Friday, with luck will be able to bus it back to last place I remember or where I had my stroke?
Walked around town, did a bit of a back track on the Camino Frances ..... watched all the Pelegrinos on the last leg of there journey, smiles at almost being finished, some walking wounded, hobbling and limping along, then there is the bike riders some who think they own the track and ride way too fast with all the walkers.
The Via de la Plata is a lonely walk in comparison to the Camino Frances, which was so crowded.
Back at the Cathedral the line for the Compostela was a huge ...... talking to a fellow Pilgrim who finished yesterday, there is close to 1500 a day finishing, though a lot walk only from O Cebreiro or Sarria to be eligible for the Compostela.
My children are ffoot sore from all the walking I have put them through.
We had a delightful diner and then bed.

Tuesday, 18 June 2013

Tuesday, 18th of June 2013,
It was a day of walking and talking, wet weather gear outside as its cool and damp .... a top of 15C today. It was great to be walking, helps clear the mind, gets rid of all the clutter.
Met up with Liz, Bill and Ann for diner ..... didn't recognise them at first, then the fog cleared enough to place them in there appropriate box in my memory. I am remembering more and more ..... but names and faces don't seem to match, well not all the time.
We talked of the my event and how scared and anxious they were, luckily Bill and Ann are fluent in Spanish, Ann a retired nurse stayed with me and Bill phoned for an ambulance, as luck would have it a Mica Ambulance was in the town we were entering and was there in minutes (and here we are in the back blocks of Spain). A trip to the nearest Hospital, anti clotting drugs, stabilised and then off to Santiago for further treatment. Think I might have used up all of my lives on this one.
Nice to have some more holes in memory filled .... though still no personal memories of the event.
Then back to my accom at the rehab place, don't feel I need any more rehab, but insurance people insist, till I'm off there books .... I'm sure they would like to shift me off home and forget me, but no flying, so here I am.
The others (my walking companions) are around for a few days and then walk on to A Coruna, which will finish there intended walk and mine when I can continue.

Monday, 17 June 2013

Monday, 17th of June 2013,
Its funny, how the medical people keep asking you:-
What is your name?
Do you know where you are?
Do you know what day it is?
Well I think I have all of these down pat now, but my Spanish is lousy at the moment.
When I first awoke , apparently I was speaking Spanish , as that is what the staff where speaking to me in ..... but as my English came back the Spanish went .... weird.
Spoke to the doctor this morning .... well no flying for about a month, so not going home.
A bit more rehab. then, may be able to continue Camino ..... that will be up to me, I guess.
Kids staying around to the end of the week then back to there lives.
My walking companions, once I was out of danger and getting ready for rehab. went back to finish what they started ...... no point them sitting around with me, OK, but unable to continue Camino till?
We had about 150km to go to Sqantiago from where I had the stroke at Albergueria ...... but I don't remember that day at all. So I assume it will take 5-7 days of walking plus getting back there ...... email says they are in Ponte Ulla about 20km short of here.
So I see them again tomorrow.

Sunday, 16 June 2013

Sunday 16th of June 2013
Not much more has happened, I walk up and down the corridor, only allowed outside with an able bodied person with me ..... feel a bit like a prisoner. I am walking steadier and feeling stronger .... hopeful of getting back to the Camino soon.
Have located my email password, so will be catching up with replies as soon as I can.

Saturday, 15 June 2013

Saturday, 15th of June 2013 - day ?
Sorry no updates for a while, I am currently recuperating in Santiago from a stroke ..... don't remember anything, up until a few days ago, awoke to family and friends from home, by my bed side. I'm out of hospital and doing some rehab. there is no obvious after effects from it other than some memory loss and hopefully I will be back to normal shortly .... but looks like I will be on Warfrin from now on .... small inconvenience, but that's life.
Will get back to emails and things when I can remember my access codes, etc. Should have had it automatically taking me in, like here.
Hoping to be fit enough to go back and finish my Camino on foot in the not to distant future.
Went out to lunch today with my daughter and son who flew over, it was great to see them, but am still a but unsteady on my feet and look to need a bit of fattening up.
Must thank my walking companions and a very helpful Mica Ambulance crew that by chance was near by and available. The early treatment made the difference between recovering hopefully completely or ..... don't want to contemplate that.
More later.

Tuesday, 4 June 2013

Tuesday, 4th of June 2013 - day 105
Its looking like a marvelous day, a few cloudes but its mild and heading to mid 20's later. We grab a last minute coffee as we are departing La Gudina, we have a lot of towns on-route today.
An hour in we venture through Venda do Espano, a slepy little town, 3/4hour later its Venda da Teresa and likewise venda da Capela and venda do Bolano ... and after 5 hours of walking we arrive at Campobecerros. We check in and clean up then lunch and relax.

Monday, 3 June 2013

Monday, 3rd of June 2013 -day 104
Sort of started today in yesterday's post which I did before starting walking this morning.
It was actually about 9am before we got away this morning ... had intentions of walking to Campobecerros, some 33km of hills and rough tracks.
That was not to be, a short distance out of Vilavella, Liz stood on a loose rock, stumbled and jarred her knee. We strapped it and carried on at a some what slower pace. Pereiro was the first town we arrive at only 4km from start, its small and a little worse for wear, we pass through and see no one, no shops open .... we continue. Its up hill all the way to the next town Canizo, much more spread out and affluent .... we are able to get a coffee here and a short rest.
We have been walking for 3 hours and have covered about 9km .... the next town is La Gudina, we can stay there its a bit under 5km down the road. Temp. is up and over 20C and getting warmer so hats and sun screen on and away we go .... the country is farm land and a picturesque mish mash of colour and texture as we shuffle along, luckily its not hard going. We walk into la Gudina 1.30 -2pm ish ..... first thing we come across is a bar, great ..... a few drinks in the shade of an umbrella, some lunch and find the accom. We have a choice of Albergue or Hostal, we chose the Hostal and settled in.
Then off to the Farmacia a few hundred metres up the road for stuff for the sore knee. Later diner and rest.

Sunday, 2 June 2013

Sunday, 2nd of June 2013 - day 103
Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, very pleasant day, spa's, massages, sun, nice ... and healthy food, and just a tad of vino. Its great to be pampered and looked after for a change.
Yes a day of doing little else than self indulgence. A sleep in, a very leisurely lunch, massage, spa, (not big on saunas), some sun and cocktails in the arvo .... diner and then drift off to sleep.
Well another day, Monday morning, have had breakfast and am ready to start trekking again, waiting on the others so thought I had better catch up as forgot all about blog last night .... and not sure on my wireless reception once back out in the rural hills villages.
Well I see them coming so till tonight or when ever reception permits,
Adios amigos

Saturday, 1 June 2013

Saturday, 1st of June 2013 - day 102
Its sunny, clear skies, but a cool start to the day ... not a long distance to day, just 18-19km .... unfortunately we are either decending or climbing and these are 300-400 metre climbs decents.
Its high teens to low 20's and we are swetting and dirty ... we make Vilavella about 1.30pm, grimmy and tired. The accom here is a 4star, Spa Resort (well thats all that is here), its expensive by our previous accom ... about 4 times dearer ..... but its great to relax and take the waters ( if it was mid week it would have been cheaper). I can send this out as broadband is included in the tariff ... mine still not working.
May stay here an extra night, food is great, room well its fantastic. Diner awaits, may be an update after diner.
Great food, too much wine, so off to bed.
Friday, 31st of May 2013 - day 101
Still no wifi signal?
Its a bit warmer today, though just, we are looking at 24km today ... carrying supplies as unsure of what we will come across.
Requejo de Sanabria is about 3 hours into our day ... then another 3, no closer to 4 hours to Padornelo .... the track is getting tougher, mainly due to the condition of the track and the constant up and over, down and up. Well no its just up for the last 3 hours of todays walk and tough as we have been on the flat for ages, months infact.
Still no signal?
Thursday, 39th of May 2013 - day 100
Its cool, overcast but no rain, we are starting to head towards the mountains. The hills are steeper and the track rougher. The towns we pass through are Asturianos, Palaeios de Sanabria ans finally we stop in Puebla de Sanabria .... some 22km today.

ps ... sorry no signal for wifi